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Upper Finger Traverse
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Southwest Face / Finger Face
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Chatters S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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East-Ledge Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Finger Ramp S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Finger Direct TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Lower Finger Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Ethics Required S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pig Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Place in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Son of Tidricks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tidrick's T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Upper Finger Direct S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Upper Finger Traverse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 38.87889, -104.88096 |
| FA: | Paul Radigan, Art Howells, John Auld, Herby Hendicks, 1960s |
| Page Views: | 1,913 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Feb 4, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2026 Closure & Seasonal nesting closures - the same as for 2025
Details
Seasonal climbing closure as of March 2026:
For current and updated seasonal climbing closures, click here: coloradosprings.gov/cultura….
The closures are the same as from 2025
Previously per PPCA: the city is installing a new water main through the park and as such the West Face of North Gateway Rock will be temporarily closed to climbers until the project is complete. The project is slated to begin its final phase in spring 2025, and we will update with a reopening date as information becomes available.
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Access Issue: 2026 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2021-5
Details
Seasonal climbing closure as of March 2026:
For current and updated seasonal climbing closures, click here: coloradosprings.gov/cultura….
The seasonal closures will be the same as in 2018-2025.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods were lifted for the season.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
This route is on the Finger Face on North Gateway Rock. Begin by climbing the Lower Finger Traverse (or the Finger Ramp) then continue above the chain anchor in the alcove by chimneying up and behind the flake, and belaying at the top of the Finger formation at two drilled pins.
From the top of the Finger Pillar, climb up to an old Star drive bolt, which sticks out slightly, but seems solid. Step up and right, then traverse right (first crux) to a good stance where you can clip a solid drilled pin. Now down-climb and traverse right simultaneously (second crux) until you can step across to a good stance and another drilled pin (use a long runner here). Climb up and right past a few more drilled pins, then make a steep pull up and over some delicate potholes, with 2 psychological threads for protection, and continue easily to the anchor.
I give this climb a PG-13 rating as the climbing is sustained and sequential, and a bit run-out. A fall at the first crux, prior to clipping the first drilled piton could be quite dangerous, especially if the star drive bolt rips. Any fall on the traverse would provide quite the swinger for either the leader or follower. Also, the potholes were a bit fragile, although the climbing through them isn't too hard.
We climbed this with a 70m rope, and it did NOT reach the ground. Instead, we replaced the webbing on the anchor using a magic-x, rappelled down slightly lower than the Finger Pillar and did a fun running pendulum to get back to the top of the pillar, and down to the chain anchor in the alcove at the top of the first pitch. Another recommendation would be to climb with 2 60m double-ropes which would allow you to rappel all the way to the ground, and may be a nice option for offering a little more protection to the follower if needed. However, if you think you might fall off this route, you probably shouldn't climb it.
3 Comments