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> Garden of the Gods
> N Gateway Rock
> Southwest Face / Fing…
Upper Finger Direct
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British X
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Southwest Face / Finger Face
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Chatters S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Finger Ramp S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Finger Direct TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Lower Finger Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Ethics Required S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pig Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Place in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Son of Tidricks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tidrick's T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Upper Finger Direct S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Upper Finger Traverse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Michael Dudley, 1967 |
| Page Views: | 1,120 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Nov 8, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: 2020 Seasonal nesting closures
Details
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Access Issue: Lifted: 2020 Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal raptor closures for 2020 are now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
This is a direct pitch up the steep slab above the Finger on the Finger Face of North Gateway Rock, leading up to the upper anchor on Tidrick's. The climb is very sustained for the first 50 feet and is quite dangerous getting to the second fixed piece of protection.
Leading off from the 2-pin anchor at the top of the Finger, climb about 10 feet to a scary Star-drive bolt that sticks about half-way out. Then climb another 20 feet or so to reach a solid, ring-angle piton. This section is rather difficult and scary (right up to where you can reach the piton) and a fall before clipping would probably guarantee serious injury, as the Star-drive will likely rip, leading to a factor 2 fall onto the anchor, as well as likely falling onto your belayer and/or the Finger pillar itself. After clipping, move left then up another 20 feet or so to another pin, followed by a pothole thread. From here, it appears you could climb straight up to the big ledge, but the flakes look very loose here, and this would not be recommended if your partner or other climbers are below. Instead, move left where you can join the last pitch of Tidrick's at its final pin, then up to the anchor.
Due to the serious nature of this route, it is not recommended as a lead, unless you are an extremely strong climber. To approach, climb the Lower Finger Direct, Lower Finger Traverse, or Finger Ramp, and continue above the chain anchor to the top of the pillar which is the Finger.
To toprope, climb Tidrick's, Upper Finger Traverse, or the Boucher-Twombly Route to access the upper anchor of Tidrick's, then rappel or lower in.
Leading off from the 2-pin anchor at the top of the Finger, climb about 10 feet to a scary Star-drive bolt that sticks about half-way out. Then climb another 20 feet or so to reach a solid, ring-angle piton. This section is rather difficult and scary (right up to where you can reach the piton) and a fall before clipping would probably guarantee serious injury, as the Star-drive will likely rip, leading to a factor 2 fall onto the anchor, as well as likely falling onto your belayer and/or the Finger pillar itself. After clipping, move left then up another 20 feet or so to another pin, followed by a pothole thread. From here, it appears you could climb straight up to the big ledge, but the flakes look very loose here, and this would not be recommended if your partner or other climbers are below. Instead, move left where you can join the last pitch of Tidrick's at its final pin, then up to the anchor.
Due to the serious nature of this route, it is not recommended as a lead, unless you are an extremely strong climber. To approach, climb the Lower Finger Direct, Lower Finger Traverse, or Finger Ramp, and continue above the chain anchor to the top of the pillar which is the Finger.
To toprope, climb Tidrick's, Upper Finger Traverse, or the Boucher-Twombly Route to access the upper anchor of Tidrick's, then rappel or lower in.
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