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Routes in Southwest Face / Finger Face

Chatters S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Ramp S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Finger Direct TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Lower Finger Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Ethics Required S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pig Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Place in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Tidricks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tidrick's T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Finger Direct S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Upper Finger Traverse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Access Issue: 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is an organizational entry to help with L->R sorting that would not otherwise work for this crag. These are routes that ascend above the Tourist Gully (a low angle ramp starting at the south end of North Gateway Rock) and are above the right end of the West Face.

These include routes from Seam Wall to Psychedelic Grandma / Bad But Harry.

Getting There

Park at the North Main Parking Lot and walk around the south end of North Gateway Rock to get to the Tourist Gully ramp. Carefully ascend 3rd class terrain (which can get sandy) to access these routes. There are some large eyebolts along the ramp that facilitate belaying more safely.

White Chalk is not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

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Location: Southwest Face / Finger Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Southwest Face / Finger Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 108
Finger Ramp
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 4
Chatters
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
 27
Lower Finger Direct
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
No Ethics Required
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Finger Ramp
 108
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Chatters
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Lower Finger Direct
 27
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X TR
No Ethics Required
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
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