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Routes in Southwest Face / Finger Face

Chatters S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Ramp S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Finger Direct TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Lower Finger Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Ethics Required S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pig Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Place in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Tidricks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tidrick's T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Finger Direct S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Upper Finger Traverse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 190 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Rick Tidrick with friends
Page Views: 5,247 total · 30/month
Shared By: Brian T. Wandzilak on Nov 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is one of the few moderate, multi-pitch routes at the Garden that about any intermediate leader should be able to do. It is a three pitch route that wanders up the Finger Face.

Pitch 1: Climb the Tourist Gully to the FIRST large eyebolt. From here head out to the right past three pins and get an ascent of the Lower Finger Traverse (5.7). Anchor in at the chains in the alcove below the "finger".

Pitch 2: From the anchors, head up and left past two (maybe 1?) runout bolts. There are some natural pro possibilities, they may help more with your mental climbing than actually stopping a fall. Pull the cruxish move between the second and third bolts (5.8), scamper up to the third bolt, clip, catch your breath, and prepare for another fun traverse. You will want to head left across an apparently blank looking face to the visible anchors at the top of Son of Tidrick's. Plan your attack, trust your feet, get across the face, grab the jug, and do a slight downclimb to the anchors. Belay your partner across and watch them sketch through the traverse.

Pitch 3: (5.7) Not many people do this pitch, but fun if you have the time. Head straight up from the anchors through three bolts. At the third bolt do yet another traverse right, to Place in the Sun's anchors which are not visible from the end of the second pitch.

DESCENT: Two ropes (recommended) should at least get you to the initial eyebolt. One rope would get you to the second or third eyebolts.

Protection

Mostly bolted with chain anchors. A couple of places for small cams and stoppers (not needed, probably wouldn't stop a fall, but there are a few good places to practice placing).
Ron Pivo
Westcreek
Ron Pivo   Westcreek
^^^^^^
Quick, someone call a "whah"bulance....
It's the Garden. What were you expecting - Yosemite quality granite?

Tidricks is a pretty solid route by Garden standards. Aug 27, 2017
Noah Forsberg
Branson, MO
  5.9+ R
Noah Forsberg   Branson, MO
  5.9+ R
I nominate a name change for this route. Something more descriptive, like "A Hope and a Prayer" or "Rock Rash", "Cheese Grater", "Butt Sander". If you enjoy the idea of climbing cheap sandpaper, this is the route for you! The heady runouts, lack of features, sandbagged rating, and impossibly sandy smearing has you wishing you had worn biker leather, rather than those million dollar spandex rock climbing yoga pants you snagged on eBay that one time. As you miraculously make each precious clip, you'll find yourself wondering if the FA guy had ever been bit by a radioactive spider.

The best method for that last traverse is to have your belayer let out a bunch of slack, tie it off securely, pull out a small handgun, and start shooting at you, where you will then tap into the matrix and run about 15' across the blank wall out to a chain anchor where you will clip securely and rethink how you run your life. Aug 27, 2017
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9 R
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9 R
Led pitch 2 the other day, one continuous push starting with Son of Tidrick's and ending at the Place in the Sun anchor. The above description lists 3 bolts on pitch 2 of Tidrick's, the old Soft Touch guide shows 2 pins. All I saw was one modern bolt 20' or so above the SoT anchor and that was it! Pretty freakin' scary leading that traverse over to the PitS anchor.... Feb 24, 2012
Clay Zamperini
Tarzana, CA
Clay Zamperini   Tarzana, CA
An unfortunate fellow takes a big whipper on the traverse of the second pitch: youtube.com/watch?v=oVnAVcb… Jul 2, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9 R
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9 R
Fun stuff! Led Tidrick's/Place in the Sun link-up. The Tidrick's P1 crux is more mental than anything.

I hope next time to climb all three original pitches and tick that .9+ R 2nd pitch! Dec 13, 2010
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
The third pitch goes right and up from the Place in the Sun anchor at about 8+/9-. You actually step right and down slightly to start the pitch, which is a little exciting getting to the first pin, but not too bad. Then traverse right and up past two more pins to a nice, south-facing ledge/ramp system. The anchor here is 2 drilled pins, webbing, and rap rings. The webbing is definitely old and faded, and next time I climb it, I'll replace it. We didn't this time, because we finished by climbing almost to the top of the Kissing Camels via the last pitches of the Boucher-Twombly Route (5.6). Please note that if you do this, it's illegal to climb up and over the Kissing Camels. Nov 3, 2010
I also wanted to add that a single 70 m rope gets you down to Tourist Gully maybe 15 feet from the very bottom. Very easy to get off the rope here and scramble down (and easier than using a second rope). Oct 18, 2010
We climbed this again today. I've always combined pitches 2 & 3, skipped the Son of Tidrick's anchors, and gone directly to the Place in the Sun anchors. I guess that's more like finishing Place in the Sun. I'm curious about the route up from the Sun anchors. Bob's book says "continue up on flexible flakes (5.8)". Has anyone done this ending recently? Care to comment on the pro? Oct 18, 2010
Erik Tullberg
Colorado Springs
  5.9 R
Erik Tullberg   Colorado Springs
  5.9 R
We did this route as the second pitch of Finger Ramp. What a nice ending to that climb (though it is run-out between the 2nd and 3rd bolts - then it's good again). Jun 22, 2008
there is a very real danger of getting pumped too early on this. coming out and accross on the first three bolts of the second pitch are an exercise in precision foot placement. stopping for too long is a sure way to drain and fail. be safe! Sep 4, 2004
A word on the crux: it seems awfully sandy and frictiony until you move your left foot over (WAY over) into a nice seam. From there, you can simply reach up to a nice jug and haul past. Dec 5, 2003