Type: Trad, Sport, 190 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Rick Tidrick with friends
Page Views: 6,393 total · 32/month
Shared By: Brian T. Wandzilak on Nov 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2019 updated nesting closures - Northern tip is now open Details
Access Issue: 2019 Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is one of the few moderate, multi-pitch routes at the Garden that about any intermediate leader should be able to do. It is a three pitch route that wanders up the Finger Face.

Pitch 1: Climb the Tourist Gully to the FIRST large eyebolt. From here head out to the right past three pins and get an ascent of the Lower Finger Traverse (5.7). Anchor in at the chains in the alcove below the "finger".

Pitch 2: From the anchors, head up and left past two (maybe 1?) runout bolts. There are some natural pro possibilities, they may help more with your mental climbing than actually stopping a fall. Pull the cruxish move between the second and third bolts (5.8), scamper up to the third bolt, clip, catch your breath, and prepare for another fun traverse. You will want to head left across an apparently blank looking face to the visible anchors at the top of Son of Tidrick's. Plan your attack, trust your feet, get across the face, grab the jug, and do a slight downclimb to the anchors. Belay your partner across and watch them sketch through the traverse.

Pitch 3: (5.7) Not many people do this pitch, but fun if you have the time. Head straight up from the anchors through three bolts. At the third bolt do yet another traverse right, to Place in the Sun's anchors which are not visible from the end of the second pitch.

DESCENT: Two ropes (recommended) should at least get you to the initial eyebolt. One rope would get you to the second or third eyebolts.

Protection

Mostly bolted with chain anchors. A couple of places for small cams and stoppers (not needed, probably wouldn't stop a fall, but there are a few good places to practice placing).

Photos