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Routes in Southwest Face / Finger Face

Chatters S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Ramp S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Finger Direct TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Lower Finger Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Ethics Required S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pig Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Place in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Tidricks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tidrick's T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Finger Direct S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Upper Finger Traverse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Borgman and Cheyney, 1960
Page Views: 12,364 total, 62/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is located on the southwest face of North Gateway Rock, known as the Finger Face for the namesake and easily identifiable "Finger", just right of the Tourist Gully.

Finger Ramp ascends the left-leaning ramp past several good bolts to a three bolt chain belay in the Finger alcove. The crux, exciting for both the leader and second, is the traverse on the outside of the Finger between the last bolt and the belay. A pink tricam in a pocket will provide psychological protection before the first bolt.

Protection

5 QDs and a pink tricam (or orange Alien).

Eds. Originally, there were 3 pins on the route. Now, additional bolt(s) were placed by a group of local climbers working in conjunction with the Park & Rec department to improve the safety.
crisgaret
Castle Rock, CO
crisgaret   Castle Rock, CO
This was a fun climb. The beginning "ramp" takes some "just do it already" attitude, but fun. Going up the chimney directly above the chains leads to a nice seat and view as well. Mar 15, 2010
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
We saw a guy take a sliding grounder on this last weekend. He had pulled out slack to clip the third bolt and slipped. Mistakes included overconfidence on slab (he said he did 5.9 in the gym), belayer not familiar with the Gri-Gri he had purchased earlier that day, and rope wrapped behind the legs contributing to his inversion. He's lucky his overhand tie-in didn't make matters worse. Finger Ramp probably isn't the best place to start your untutored, outdoor climbing career. Oct 2, 2008
GMBurns
  5.7 PG13
GMBurns  
  5.7 PG13
A nice route, with a mental crux that requires a decision. I stayed low and found it committing but easy. Sep 19, 2008
Dave Jackson  
 
I haven't climbed this route since 2000, so I am going off previous posts and comments on this site. This was my first lead long before the feel good bolts were put in! I disagree with the retro bolt, it was just unnecessary! Yea, it's a little runout to the first bolt, but how many times has this climb been completed vs how many accidents/falls have occurred in the same period of time? The climb used to done with 4 bolts that were all right hand clips. Putting pro in the crack is a good idea, but probably takes more time to place than to actually move through the crux. Also, the fifth bolt after the crux is a waste of time. Overall, this was/is a great climb. The crux is an outstanding puzzle with feet that look questionable, but are fairly solid. Enjoy!

-D Mar 10, 2006
Ryan Carlino
  5.7
Ryan Carlino  
  5.7
Climbed today and enjoyed it. There are 5 new looking bolts, all in decent spots. Thanks to the re-bolting team! The fourth one (I think) moves a bit. I was happy for the new first bolt and felt secure (i.e. well protected) up the ramp. After bolt 4, you begin the move around the finger. I dropped in a nut for feel-good pro to get to the last bolt. Then the fun stuff begins. It looked easier since I figured on a decent jam in the crack, but I only found one spot that was narrow enough. After slugging through, the anchors are there. There was WAY too much WHITE chalk on the route (and the .9 that you rap down). The rock is so sticky, I still don't understand why. If you need chalk, just use something that matches. Jun 9, 2005
Jon Cannon
  5.7+
Jon Cannon  
  5.7+
They added a bolt? It's an outrage!

When *I* first led Finger Ramp, it was more vertical, there were fewer holds, and, um ... there was a rule that you had to haul a 200-pound pack up with you while leading.

I suppose the next thing they'll do is issue Lycra when you register.

;-)

All kidding aside, probably a real good idea. Mar 14, 2005
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
This is a surprisingly fun climb. The moves on the traverse after the last bolt are not obvious at all. I felt underneath the top part of the diagonal crack and found stuff to undercling as I stood up and used some chalked up facets above. Once stable, I felt forward for a nice edge and moved down onto a good hand traverse. You can get a nice leg jam in there if you wish. Just put your knee and calf right in the slot. Oct 23, 2004
A bit more information on David's comment above. The bolt was placed by a group of local climbers working in conjunction with the Park & Rec department to improve the safety of some of the Garden's popular routes as well as build and designate climber trails to the route bases and eliminate social trials. Jul 22, 2004
David Danforth
California/Colorado
David Danforth   California/Colorado
Everyone knows about the runout to that bolt, but there ain't one anymore. There is now a nice 5/8" glue in just above that pin scar in the middle of the runout, no longer anything to worry about with hitting the deck at the bottom. Enjoy. -cheers Jul 16, 2004
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.7+
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.7+
Old pinky would come in handy prior to clipping the first bolt, otherwise (like everyone else has stated) it's a good 20'. Stay low under the finger to make it a more secure traverse to the anchor (7). From the chains, we headed left on Tidrick's second pitch which was definitely spicy (8+). I used a couple of TCU's on the traverse, which eased the mind a bit between bolts. Then onward and upward on good holds to the chains, but take care on the way up - I'm fairly certain that a fall prior to clipping the last bolt before the anchor could land you on the traverse ledge. Apr 1, 2004
Brian T. Wandzilak  
  5.8-
I've climbed this route a couple of times in the last few weeks. After discussing with some friends, I've come to the conclusion that it is a one move wonder route (maybe two depending on height and ape-factor). The initial runout is no worse than any other GoG routes. There are plenty of edges, etc to get you to the last pin. I've found that the more you can get a foot wedged in the crack/depression below the "Finger" the more secure it seems, although you are placing yourself higher than your last pin. A great route for a developing leader. Nov 12, 2003
Chris R
  5.8
Chris R  
  5.8
Shane Zenter's comment addressing the seldom-ascended second pitch of this line (what's up Shane??) are right on. Spicy and fun, and in no way overprotected like some Garden lines, the second pitch is clean (for the Finger Face) and fun climbing.

From the first pitch anchors in the alcove, continue the leftward traverse, clipping three bolts, and then move straight up the rock to some bomber chain anchors not visible from below. Rappelling from those anchors, a single 60m rope will reach the lower eyebolt in the Tourist Gully. Oct 23, 2003
This route recently had some foot holds break of at the crux, and while this doesn't change the rating that much, I thought some climbers might want to know about it. This route is an excellent route but definitely not for the faint of heart. The pin scar at the beginning (in my opinion) isn't worth messing around with, wastes energy and time, and besides, the runout to the first pin isn't that bad, so just go for it. Sep 27, 2003
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Very surprised by this 7. Set it up for my friend who dosen't climb much and was pleasently surprised by the unique challenge of the shallow, leaning offwidth near the top. Cool moves. Mar 10, 2003
David Danforth
California/Colorado
David Danforth   California/Colorado
There's something about that move under the finger thing that makes everyone freak out. You get up there and get upset with yourself 'cause you can't gather the balls to get over it. That's how I felt, and I feel better knowing I'm not the only one. I guess, the best thing to do is bust a "shut up and just do it!" Other than that, the rest of the route is a blast. The bottom is kinda runout-like to the first bolt. You can go right and put a small cam in the corner over there. Or, you can just head straight up which I would recommend because the climb up to the bolt isn't that tough. All in all, a great route. Cheers. Jan 13, 2003
This is probably one of my favorite Garden routes. There's a sucky runout to the first bolt. I've bitten the bullet and gone straight up and I've gone off to the right and done up the small crack over there...either one doesn't matter. As long as you don't be dumb and screw up the first 15 feet (kinda hard, its easy climbing), you're fine.... After that, it's smooth sailing up until you get to the finger overhang thing. Trust your feet!!!! Oct 22, 2002
Brian T. Wandzilak  
  5.8-
The clown above (Jon Cannon) got it about right. This was my first climb at the Garden, and I really enjoyed it. A very satisfying lead for an intermediate level climber. As for getting around to the roof find the best foot possible, move your weight over, and reach up and around for the jug. The variations mentioned sound enticing also, but being a flatlander, I prefer the bolts. Later. Aug 30, 2002
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Lots of smearing on this route. I broke off a nice chunk at the roof and took a pretty good swing. May 30, 2002
Definitely one of the more hair-raising 7s around. Delicate, balancy and potentially spooky. An ascent of this one followed by a TR of Finger Direct (10+) is definitely a must-do Garden outing. IMHO, don't bother with the tricam in the piton scar - time spent futzing around down there is time that you could be spending getting to the real safety at the fixed pin. (It's not a real solid stance at the scar.) Also, the traverse is more mentally intimidating than anything. The feet are all there and there are a few heaven-sent jugs above the seam, so "just do it." May 29, 2002
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
To add more spice to Finger Ramp, follow a line of bolts that head diagonally left (climber's left) from the chain anchor at the top of the first pitch. This second pitch goes up a ramp, then shoots upward to an anchor with a nice ledge (maybe 5.8?). Apr 18, 2002
There is variation (or a separate route?) to this which begins about 20 feet to the right. It climbs the 'inside' of the ramp using all natural gear, roughly paralleling the bolted line, and meeting just before the third bolt. There is some loose rock, but nothing bad, and the gear is quite good. Nov 28, 2001
Jon Cannon
  5.7+
Jon Cannon  
  5.7+
The first bolt is about 20' off the deck; fortunately, a groundfall (as my friend Blaine discovered) won't be so bad, as the ramp makes a groundfall more like a ground-slide. The pink tri-cam really needs to be seated properly in the piton scar, lest it pull at an unfortunate moment. The piton scar is about 10' off. Any fall prior to the crux would implicate a decent pendulum, on to a manky friable .9 or so face.

This was a stout .7, but very enjoyable. I would recommend it to any person new to the Garden. Nov 28, 2001
This climb is tougher than its rating may suggest. The move around overhanging finger rock can be very dirty after it rains which can make it even more interesting. A small cam can be placed under the overhang to lessen any fears of swinging should you fall on the traverse under the finger rock to the anchors. The only suggestion for the crux under finger rock to be sure to use your feet for balance, since the rock is very good for smearing. Oct 26, 2001