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Routes in Southwest Face / Finger Face

Chatters S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Ramp S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Finger Direct TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Lower Finger Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Ethics Required S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pig Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Place in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Tidricks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tidrick's T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Finger Direct S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Upper Finger Traverse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: Max Hinkle, 1960s
Page Views: 1,572 total, 8/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This would be a bold lead indeed, with only a single unreliable drilled angle (placed after the FA) near the crux. A fall below the pin would probably result in, at best, a ride to the hospital. It is best done as a TR after climbing Finger Ramp or Lower Finger Traverse, and definitely worth doing when set up in this fashion.

Climb straight up the improbable slab directly beneath the anchor in the finger alcove, moving slightly left and then back right. Because the rock is a bit soft and has few positive holds, the route requires finesse and balance rather than brute strength.

Protection

If you want to lead it, you only need one QD to clip the single manky drilled angle (placed after the FA).

Location

This starts at the base of the Tourist Gully below a slightly tiny, left-leaning dihedral.

Photos

In 1967 when I first ascended lower Finger Direct, it was a real challenge for me. I was only 5'8", had no climbing chalk, and the best climbing shoes were made with Vibram soles. I had done the routes above the finger a few times and took time to study the rock while rappeling down from above the finger. I actually hated to deface the rock, so I climbed it unassisted by protection. This made it a real mental challenge for me. The one piece of protection put in must have been put in later. I was really glad to finish the climb and to hook up an upper rope for my second. I think I did this whole climb on a dare? Max Hinkle, 2011 Oct 11, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a/b X
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a/b X
This is 5.9 in the old guidebooks ;-)

Very sweet and sustained climbing! I went straight up off the ground, joining the seam about halfway up; I hear that going right for the seam is easier. Still, I thought the crux was a couple moves after the pin, willing your foot to stick on a very improbable edge. Nov 27, 2010
GMBurns
  5.10c/d X
GMBurns  
  5.10c/d X
A fun TR. I would not want to lead this, though. Sep 19, 2008
Dave Jackson  
 
This is one of the best TRs in GOG! As you're rapping from the chains it looks pretty bleak and blank, but as you start climbing you really get to know GOG sandstone, where holds are, how to use them, and how to trust the edges. Climbing the Direct after either the Ramp or the Traverse makes for a wonderful afternoon. You could probably do all three if other climbers aren't around. A great confidence builder! I would agree with the .10b/c rating proposed earlier. Definitely not .10-, maybe if you cheated.

Mar 10, 2006
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
5.10b
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
5.10b
5.10b sounds just right for the rating. There appears to be several ways to negotiate the upper and middle sections. I traversed right down low to the diagonal seam while my partner went straight up. Very crimpy and fun!

On a sad note, a little baby pigeon took a fall from a perch way up above us while we were climbing. Buried the little dude under some rocks at the base of the route. Oct 23, 2004
Dylan Scott
  5.10a
Dylan Scott  
  5.10a
This is a great climb! I just climbed it yesterday for the first time. Do the Finger Traverse to set up a toprope and then go at it. I would rate it at a low 5.10 personally. Great climb though! Jun 2, 2004
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
  5.10b X
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
  5.10b X
Thin and fun. A smeary "boulder" problem traverses the bottom of the wall from Finger Direct's start up to the bottom of the Tourist Gully. Apr 19, 2004
According the guidebook, you gain a seam to the right about 15 feet off the ground. You then follow this to the only pin on the route where you find a jug and go for the anchors. I would like to think this is a 5.10+, but I agree maybe not the hard. . . Later. Oct 27, 2003
David Conlin
5.10a
David Conlin  
5.10a
I, too, did not think this was as hard as 10+. Maybe 10-. Fun route to toprope. Oct 24, 2003
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
I thought this was a really fun climb. Small edges and very balancey moves. It really makes you think to figure out how to climb with next to no holds. Mar 10, 2003
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
No wonder I was able to climb it! Jul 15, 2002
I thought this one wasn't too hard (on TR), maybe 5.9.... Jul 14, 2002
Fun stuff. There are a handful of moves on this one with simply no hands at all. If you have climbing buddies who think they're all that because they power over the overhangs at Rifle Mountain regularly, put 'em on this one and watch them whimper ;-) Apr 26, 2002
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
This a good place to practice slab technique. Set up a TR and smear like crazy. Apr 23, 2002