Type: Sport
FA: Ed Webster, Leonard Coyne et al., 1977
Page Views: 3,829 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tradkelly on Dec 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Climb Tourist Gully from below the Finger alcove to the second eyebolt. Belay from the second eyebolt and examine the route - it starts with a 10' descent and traverse to the first two pitons, not directly up to the closer chain setup (that's Son of Tidricks, another good 5.8). The route generally arcs out right, up, and then back left in a crescent.

Two cruxes exist, in between the second and third pitons (flakes no longer exist) and right at the third. The route is thin but the feet are much better than they feel. Really. Be very careful from the last bolt to the anchors not to damage the extremely friable flakey sandstone, and don't climb this at all when it's wet or damp! Many good flakes are gone because of irresponsible climbing and not following the 'down not out' sandstone mantra.

Rap from the belay eyebolt to the ground with a 60m rope. Classic route, but getting harder (somewhat sandbagged as a straight 8) each season. A second pitch continues up at 5.9 from the chains.

Protection Suggest change

3 drilled angles and 2 good bolts lead to a 3-chain belay with a solid quicklink anchor. 7 QDs.