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Routes in Southwest Face / Finger Face

Chatters S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Ramp S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Finger Direct TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Lower Finger Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Ethics Required S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pig Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Place in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Tidricks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tidrick's T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Finger Direct S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Upper Finger Traverse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Radigen, Howells, Auld, and Hendricks
Page Views: 3,244 total, 16/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is a devious 5.7. Climb up the Tourist Gully to an eyebolt just below the level of the Finger alcove and belay here. Make an interesting traverse straight right to the alcove, and its bolted belay, passing 3 bolts along the way.

Rap from the chain anchor in the alcove or continue on Upper Finger Traverse (5.9).

Protection

3 QDs for (3 modern bolts replaced the 3 drilled pins) to a 2 bolt anchor with chains (modern bolts have replaced the drilled pins).
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.8
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I thought about it for a while; felt like 5.8 to me. Big swing for the follower if they blow it at the second clip. Glad I didn't get my novice follower on this one! Feb 10, 2013
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Delicate crimping, edging, smearing and balance. Damn, I love the Garden! Aug 8, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
5.8
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
5.8
I feel that this has become harder than a .7-- sketchy to the first bolt and then for the follower after clearing the last bolt. My second took a nasty pendulum fall!! Jul 16, 2008
Chris Mack  
 
Not even close to 5.7, and harder than 5.8. One of the more sandbagged routes in the state. Sep 27, 2007
Larry C. Schubarth
colorado springs, colorado
Larry C. Schubarth   colorado springs, colorado
Try leading it backwards (i.e. from the Finger to Tourist Gully). That makes it a lead on both ends. Sep 19, 2007
Oh my god! don't let anybody fool you into thinking that this is a 5.7!! Many flakes have broken of and there is almost nowhere for your feet. Be careful getting up to the first it's a long tumble down the gully. May 17, 2004
Brian T. Wandzilak  
  5.8-
I had not climbed this route previous to the holds breaking off, so I cannot attest to the relative difficulty to it. However, I would not put it any harder than a 5.8. If anything it is a bit of a mind game, because it is a different style. But, it is low-angle with apparently solid rock and holds virtually the whole way. A great lead for anyone looking for some GoG variety. Nov 12, 2003
Chris R  
A bit contrived, but good moves on solid (for the Finger Face) rock. This line will be easier for those accustomed to bouldering traverses, as it moves almost parallel to the ground. Accurately rated at 5.7, but it's not a climb for beginners or fresh leaders. Aug 25, 2003
Good route but be weary that a fairly large hold is missing between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The route is definitely not a .7 anymore. It wouldn't be that bad of a pendulum but still, just be careful, like Davy always says, CHEERS! Jul 11, 2003
David Danforth
California/Colorado
David Danforth   California/Colorado
Very good climb. It's odd it doesn't get much more traffic 'cause the line is really nice. Starts up at the first huge eye bolt in the gully. 3 bolts. New compared to say the bolts on Tidricks or A Place in the Sun. They're very solid. The only thing about Fingers Traverse is that it doesn't go at a .7 anymore. Some flakes have broken off in the past yr or so. Adds to the fun. There is a flake just after the third bolt that is coming loose too, so watch out for that so you don't pull it out as well. All in all, it's a very nice route and don't pass it up. -cheers- Jun 23, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Short and sweet. This climb is a fun traverse that goes to the anchor on Finger Ramp. This is a good 5.7 with a bit of sketch factor. Apr 18, 2002