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> North Gateway Rock
> Southwest Face / Finger Face
Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It)
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches |
FA: | Fred Aschert, 1989 |
Page Views: | 525 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | mountainmicah83 on Sep 26, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Update as of 8/4/15: as of this week, SOME closures have been lifted in Garden of the Gods. Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is now entirely open. The Summit Ridge, East Ledges, and West face (excluding the West face of Tower of Babel) of North Gateway is also open.
The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb. 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
2015 closure photo.
The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb. 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
2015 closure photo.
From the Garden of the Gods Staff:
The closure for Gray Rock has been lifted. The closure on North Gateway remains in effect at this time.
From the Garden of the Gods Staff (3/1/17):
The closures are in place for the Tower of Babel- please refer to the attached images. As of this posting, there are no other closures, but we anticipate closures for North Gateway and Gray Rock similar to those in years past- but we're waiting until we see confirmed nesting behavior before enacting any closures. We will update this post as closures come in to place or are lifted.
A closure is now in effect for the North half of the East face of Gray Rock- please refer to the attached images. We are monitoring another nesting site of North Gateway, so it is possible that there may be some additional closures on North gateway, depending on what we see.
Tower of Babel:
Gray Rock:
Click hereuploads.mountainproject.com…, hereuploads.mountainproject.com…, hereuploads.mountainproject.com…, and hereuploads.mountainproject.com… for another way to view the images.
UPDATE (5/22): A closure is now in effect for the North half of the East face of Gray Rock- please refer to the attached images. We are monitoring another nesting site of North Gateway, so it is possible that there may be some additional closures on North Gateway, depending on what we see.
Click hereuploads.mountainproject.com… and hereuploads.mountainproject.com… for more images.
Previous years' information:
From the Garden of the Gods Staff (10/18/16):
All closures for the park have been lifted. We don't expect any closures until March of 2017.
March 2, 2016
Based on observed nesting behavior, climbing closures in effect for for North Gateway Rock/Tower of Babel and AKA Kindergarten Rock (AKA Gray Rock). We expect these closures to last until approximately August for the West Face of N. Gateway and Kindergarten Rock, and until approximately October for the Tower of Babel- we will update this thread when these closures are lifted based on observed behavior, which will ultimately determine the specific dates.If you have questions, please stop by the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center. Also refer to forum post for maps: mountainproject.com/v/garde…
We also want to remind the climbing community that white chalk is prohibited in the park. When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year, and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o…
Finally, we want to remind everyone that you can fill out your permit online, any time! Visit parks.coloradosprings.gov/p…
to register to climb. This should only take a few minutes, and is valid until the end of the year (New Year's).
OLD CLOSURES
We were notified on 10/2/15 that all bird closures have now been lifted.
Per Stewart M. Green: the Garden of the Gods Park is now open to rock climbing as of Tuesday, June 2.
Update as of 8/4/15: as of this week, SOME closures have been lifted in Garden of the Gods. Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is now entirely open. The Summit Ridge, East Ledges, and West face (excluding the West face of Tower of Babel) of North Gateway is also open.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Update as of 3/27/15:
North Gateway Rock and Tower of Babel closures:
--- Invalid image id: 110249045 ---
Kindergarten Rock:
Update as of 10/25/14:
Per Wesley Hermann, Park Interpreter, Garden of the Gods: All closures are lifted including Tower of Babel
Update as of 8/10/14:
Closures in Garden of the Gods Park for raptor nesting sites have been lifted. This includes the East face of North Gateway, the East Ledges on North Gateway, and the East face of Grey (Kindergarten) Rock. Closures for Migratory Birds are still in effect - this includes the Tower of Babel. We expect this closure to last in to early Fall. Please refer to the map attached. If you have questions, please stop by the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center.
Prior closures (pre 8/10/14): There are currently two closures in effect, both on North Gateway Rock. The first closures is for the Eastern Face (including the East ledges), which will include routes like Max's Mayhem, Snuggles/Fall Crack, etc. The second closure is for the Tower of Babel on the North end of Gateway Rock, and includes Anaconda, Ryan's Inferno, The Inferno, and Triple Exposure. The routes listed above are for reference, but may not represent all routes affected, and closures may be subject to change. We've provided a map of North gateway showing these closures.
North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.
North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.
Submitted By: GardenoftheGodsStaff on Mar 5, 2014
Addendum: March 29 - Based on new reports of nesting behavior and of raptors exhibiting signs of stress/defending their nesting sites, we are updating our closures to include Big Sky and Sand in the Vaseline (aka The Route to the Left) on the East face of Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock). Other routes on the East face near the South Summit such as New Era will remain open, but we ask that climbers approach these routes from the South, and avoid the North end/approach of the East Face while the closure is in effect.
The closure for Gray Rock has been lifted. The closure on North Gateway remains in effect at this time.
From the Garden of the Gods Staff (3/1/17):
The closures are in place for the Tower of Babel- please refer to the attached images. As of this posting, there are no other closures, but we anticipate closures for North Gateway and Gray Rock similar to those in years past- but we're waiting until we see confirmed nesting behavior before enacting any closures. We will update this post as closures come in to place or are lifted.
A closure is now in effect for the North half of the East face of Gray Rock- please refer to the attached images. We are monitoring another nesting site of North Gateway, so it is possible that there may be some additional closures on North gateway, depending on what we see.
Tower of Babel:
Gray Rock:
Click hereuploads.mountainproject.com…, hereuploads.mountainproject.com…, hereuploads.mountainproject.com…, and hereuploads.mountainproject.com… for another way to view the images.
UPDATE (5/22): A closure is now in effect for the North half of the East face of Gray Rock- please refer to the attached images. We are monitoring another nesting site of North Gateway, so it is possible that there may be some additional closures on North Gateway, depending on what we see.
Click hereuploads.mountainproject.com… and hereuploads.mountainproject.com… for more images.
Previous years' information:
From the Garden of the Gods Staff (10/18/16):
All closures for the park have been lifted. We don't expect any closures until March of 2017.
March 2, 2016
Based on observed nesting behavior, climbing closures in effect for for North Gateway Rock/Tower of Babel and AKA Kindergarten Rock (AKA Gray Rock). We expect these closures to last until approximately August for the West Face of N. Gateway and Kindergarten Rock, and until approximately October for the Tower of Babel- we will update this thread when these closures are lifted based on observed behavior, which will ultimately determine the specific dates.If you have questions, please stop by the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center. Also refer to forum post for maps: mountainproject.com/v/garde…
We also want to remind the climbing community that white chalk is prohibited in the park. When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year, and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o…
Finally, we want to remind everyone that you can fill out your permit online, any time! Visit parks.coloradosprings.gov/p…
to register to climb. This should only take a few minutes, and is valid until the end of the year (New Year's).
OLD CLOSURES
We were notified on 10/2/15 that all bird closures have now been lifted.
Per Stewart M. Green: the Garden of the Gods Park is now open to rock climbing as of Tuesday, June 2.
Update as of 8/4/15: as of this week, SOME closures have been lifted in Garden of the Gods. Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is now entirely open. The Summit Ridge, East Ledges, and West face (excluding the West face of Tower of Babel) of North Gateway is also open.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Update as of 3/27/15:
North Gateway Rock and Tower of Babel closures:
--- Invalid image id: 110249045 ---
Kindergarten Rock:
Update as of 10/25/14:
Per Wesley Hermann, Park Interpreter, Garden of the Gods: All closures are lifted including Tower of Babel
Update as of 8/10/14:
Closures in Garden of the Gods Park for raptor nesting sites have been lifted. This includes the East face of North Gateway, the East Ledges on North Gateway, and the East face of Grey (Kindergarten) Rock. Closures for Migratory Birds are still in effect - this includes the Tower of Babel. We expect this closure to last in to early Fall. Please refer to the map attached. If you have questions, please stop by the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center.
Prior closures (pre 8/10/14): There are currently two closures in effect, both on North Gateway Rock. The first closures is for the Eastern Face (including the East ledges), which will include routes like Max's Mayhem, Snuggles/Fall Crack, etc. The second closure is for the Tower of Babel on the North end of Gateway Rock, and includes Anaconda, Ryan's Inferno, The Inferno, and Triple Exposure. The routes listed above are for reference, but may not represent all routes affected, and closures may be subject to change. We've provided a map of North gateway showing these closures.
North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.
North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.
Submitted By: GardenoftheGodsStaff on Mar 5, 2014
Addendum: March 29 - Based on new reports of nesting behavior and of raptors exhibiting signs of stress/defending their nesting sites, we are updating our closures to include Big Sky and Sand in the Vaseline (aka The Route to the Left) on the East face of Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock). Other routes on the East face near the South Summit such as New Era will remain open, but we ask that climbers approach these routes from the South, and avoid the North end/approach of the East Face while the closure is in effect.
Description
The crux of the route is trying not to aid it as you slip and slide your way up the sandy, breakable, dime-size ledges. Luckily there are about 16 or so pitons on the first pitch, and it is great for your head until you reach the last one with a healthy 30' runout to the anchors. If you decide to continue on, it is probably better to skip the anchors and head to the top on much more brittle terrain with standard Garden protection of spaced out, manky pitons.
Location
Go up the Tourist Gully to the second eye bolt and/or just below the bomber set of 3 anchors and look right. It is the line of pitons just all a few feet apart.
This is just right of Chatters.
This is just right of Chatters.
Photos
- No Photos -
Colorado Springs, CO
all over the place lately