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Southwest Face / Finger Face

Colorado > Colorado Springs > Garden of the Gods > N Gateway Rock
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal nesting closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023 DetailsDrop down

Description

This is an organizational entry to help with L->R sorting that would not otherwise work for this crag. These are routes that ascend above the Tourist Gully (a low angle ramp starting at the south end of North Gateway Rock) and are above the right end of the West Face.

These include routes from Seam Wall to Psychedelic Grandma / Bad But Harry.

Getting There

Park at the North Main Parking Lot and walk around the south end of North Gateway Rock to get to the Tourist Gully ramp. Carefully ascend 3rd class terrain (which can get sandy) to access these routes. There are some large eyebolts along the ramp that facilitate belaying more safely.

White Chalk is not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

Routes from Left to Right

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
 2
East-Ledge Traverse
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 2
Pig Dreams
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 6
Chatters
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It…
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
No Ethics Required
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Son of Tidricks
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Place in the Sun
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Lower Finger Traverse
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
 31
Lower Finger Direct
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 138
Finger Ramp
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Tidrick's
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
 1
Upper Finger Direct
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 2
Upper Finger Traverse
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East-Ledge Traverse
 2
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Pig Dreams
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Chatters
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Clip It or Skip It (aka Ski…
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
No Ethics Required
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Son of Tidricks
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Place in the Sun
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lower Finger Traverse
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lower Finger Direct
 31
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X TR
Finger Ramp
 138
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Tidrick's
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Upper Finger Direct
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X Sport, TR
Upper Finger Traverse
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

John Thomson beginning the third pitch of Tidrick's, 11/2/10.
[Hide Photo] John Thomson beginning the third pitch of Tidrick's, 11/2/10.