Mountain Project Logo

Routes in West Face

Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Men at Work T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pillar Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,037 total, 46/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


120 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is an excellent beginner lead with generally solid gear placements.

Scramble up onto the large shelf just left of the Tourist Gully. Cowboy Boot Crack follows the disjunct crack system on the left side of the blunt arete until it meets the ridge, then follows easy ground to a belay at huge eyebolts.

Downclimb the Tourist Gully (5.0) or rappel. A 60m rope will just barely reach the platform for the rappel and for setting up a TR.

Protection

Light standard rack to a modern 2 bolt anchor with chains.
Michael Lucky
Charleston, SC
 
Michael Lucky   Charleston, SC
 
I would not want to fall on that pin. I clipped it any way, but it is bent up and doesn't give confidence. This was my first time in GOG and it was fun climbing, but the old pins don't give me a warm and fuzzy. Jun 4, 2012
Walt Barker
Reno NV
  5.6
Walt Barker   Reno NV
  5.6
Excellent route. Lots of great placements. Ditto on the #3 for the traverse to the pin, which is not as scary as it appears. You can really sew that crack up, if you want. Apr 26, 2012
Climbed this one yesterday. Just a warning: beware of the big Petzl eyebolts at the top anchor (second one?). I got up there and found the eyebolts almost 50% worn through. I know it's a beginner route, but people need to learn to preserve some fixed gear. Sep 2, 2010
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
  5.6
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
  5.6
Take a BD #3 to put behind the Boot flake before the traverse to the pin. The pin is at the bottom of the crack across from the upper part of the flake. Otherwise all medium to small stuff. A 60m rope will easily reach either the shelf or the ground to the west from the anchors for a rappel, contrary to the route description. Jul 8, 2010
ashley holmes
decatur,al.
ashley holmes   decatur,al.
Done in '07. Jan 19, 2010
Michael West
Enterprise, AL
Michael West   Enterprise, AL
Are the anchors for this the ones higher up or a a little down? I top roped it from the higher ones and it seems to me like they are meant for some climb to the left.... Dec 28, 2009
bigwallrog
the farside
bigwallrog   the farside
Well said England, I might add that the whole face up there is a nice place to spend an afternoon.... Oct 23, 2009
England
?
  5.6
England   ?
  5.6
Good route. Short, and leaves you wanting more. Found excellent placements for a 6 & 7 Hex (passive), and technical Friends 1.25" thru 2" (active). A lot of other placement opportunities, mostly small to medium nuts. Sep 28, 2008
Joshua Balke
Colorado Springs
Joshua Balke   Colorado Springs
Took some beginners out this afternoon and a friend ascended the Tourist Gully clearly trailing a rope to set up a TR and was told promptly by someone to get down. I was a bit irritated when I showed up to hear this as he was clearly a "technical climber" with rope and gear and climbing perfectly safely. So, the answer to the above is yes you can, but you may be shouted at. Jun 24, 2007
Matt Chan
Boulder
Matt Chan   Boulder
If you use the double ring bolt anchors at the top, bring your 60m rope for rappel. Stoppers, #1 Camalot, and a draw (or two if you continue to the upper anchor) will sew it well. Apr 1, 2004
Larry Shaw  
 
What a cool route...I like the hand and finger jams up top. Dec 24, 2003
Don't use the bridge-thing, I've never noticed it. You shouldn't need to place there - wait for the crack. Apr 28, 2003
David Danforth
California/Colorado
David Danforth   California/Colorado
You can climb the leftern part of the tourist gully to get to the anchors. It's a good way to get up and set up a nice TR. When you get ot the base of the route, just right, there is a small gully next to the tourist gully. Head up the one next to Cowboy. its not too tough but a little exposed. Then, when you get to the top, its just an easy move over a horn and you are right above the anchors. Dec 30, 2002
Darin Lang  
 
It's certainly possible to traverse in to the anchor from the Tourist Gully. There are one or two mandatory fifth class moves, if the correct route is chosen. It feels more exposed than it looks from the ground. Dec 13, 2002
Can you climb the Tourist Gully and traverse left to set up a toprope? Dec 12, 2002
Jon Cannon  
 
I did this route again on Sunday. There is a placement where the Cowboy Boot (the 15-foot tall finger-like formation near the bottom of the route) leans up against the headwall where one could girth-hitch a bridge (I hesitate to call it a pot-hole) between the Boot and the headwall. The bridge is dangerously eroded, and I doubt it would hold a fall.

To me, this raises an interesting question. Obviously, the bridge (or whatever you geologists would prefer to name it) has eroded because of use by climbers. What had been a beefy, thick naturally-occurring Big Bro when I first started climbing four years ago is now a mere finger's-width. I'm sure some natural erosion has taken place, but it's easy to see the groove where slings have been rubbing away at the rock. Besides not using this any more (I won't), do we as climbers have any affirmative obligations to repair the damage? Is there any cost-effective way to do it in the first place?

Just curious to see if anyone has any thoughts on this issue. Aug 6, 2002
Jon Cannon  
 
This route just gobbles up small to medium stoppers. One can stop at the bolts for Trigger Finger, the .9 face climb just left of Cowboy, for a more manageable rappel. Remember the Garden mantra: Pull down, not out. Nov 6, 2001