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West Face Rock Climbing
Routes in West Face
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Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Arching Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Horribly Heinous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 |
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Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Men at Work T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pillar Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rainbow Bridge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 |
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| Elevation: | 6,035 ft | 1,839 m |
| GPS: |
38.88, -104.88146 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 42,687 total · 263/month | |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Nov 7, 2011 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024-25 Closure & Seasonal nesting closures
Details
Per PPCA: the city is installing a new water main through the park and as such the West Face of North Gateway Rock will be temporarily closed to climbers until the project is complete. The project is slated to begin its final phase in spring 2025, and we will update with a reopening date as information becomes available.
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
This is a reorganizational entry to allow for L->R: sorting of the routes to make sense, we'll create an entry for the west face.
Some of this complicated face makes L->R sorting very difficult. To help with allowing L->R sorting, we'll break off the Southwest Face / Finger Face and routes above the Tourist Gully to a distinct area. In addition, the lowest area below the overhung wall makes for difficult L->R sorting, and we'll keep that area unsorted relative to the rest of the face.
This subarea will include routes from The Pillar Climb to Water Crack.
This subarea has the bulk of the routes on North Gateway Rock. Some of it is subject to raptor closures, so make sure you are compliant with the regulations.
It is bathed in afternoon sunshine.
Some of this complicated face makes L->R sorting very difficult. To help with allowing L->R sorting, we'll break off the Southwest Face / Finger Face and routes above the Tourist Gully to a distinct area. In addition, the lowest area below the overhung wall makes for difficult L->R sorting, and we'll keep that area unsorted relative to the rest of the face.
This subarea will include routes from The Pillar Climb to Water Crack.
This subarea has the bulk of the routes on North Gateway Rock. Some of it is subject to raptor closures, so make sure you are compliant with the regulations.
It is bathed in afternoon sunshine.
White Chalk is not allowed!
The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.
When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….
When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….
Classic Climbing Routes at West Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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