Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Ed Webster & Peter Mayfield, June 27, 1979
Page Views: 5,731 total · 26/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details


This is a good route on the North side of Gateway Rock. It ascends a wide crack that is also the start of Men At Work but continues up and left. The crack leads to a small pedestal where you can rest before starting the hard climbing. Traverse left across a series of potholes protected by drilled pins. After about 25', head straight up on thin face holds (crux) to a bolted anchor above. The pitch is 90'. Ric Geiman's book calls this route 10+, and it may have been when Ed Webster did the first ascent but it has become very slick at the crux and some of the holds have worn away making it very difficult for 5.10....


8 or 9 quickdraws and some large cams for the start.


One of my favorite routes in The Garden although slick. After the first pitch, I usually go right to a 60ft aid traverse. Then either straight up over a small overhang or right on some very loose rock to a 5.6 last pitch. A beautiful route to enjoy as the sun sets! Sep 24, 2003
Matt Juth
Matt Juth   Evergreen
Agree. It is difficult for 5.10. The potholes are the neatest part of the route. Apr 28, 2004
GREAT climb, crux crimp gets smaller and smaller ...I think .10d now. Sep 25, 2008
One of the pins above the potholes fell out this past June. We climbed it in May, it was there. In July, it was gone. It is still leadable without it, but it would sure would be safer if the missing one were replaced - along with the half-out ringed piton that starts the potholes traverse.

Along with T-Ex and Anaconda, one of the best routes in the Garden. Oct 31, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
New favorite line in the Garden... but yeah, after discussing with other climbers, I think it's safe to say it's now in the 11a range. Whatever that's worth - do it. Nov 10, 2012
Rolofson calls it 5.11- (Hubbel & Rolofson, 1988, p 236.) Nov 18, 2012
matt bruton
Colorado Springs, Colorado
matt bruton   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Hands down my favorite route in The Garden. Dec 1, 2013
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
For the sport climbers dying to get on this, the first 25' crack is about 5.7 hands/fists; so either solo to the first pin or protect with BD #2s-#4s or some bigger hexes. Extend the living shit out of these though, along with the first two pins, to avoid heinous rope drag. The second pin is placed so that any whip would snap your biner from cross-loading over a blunt edge. Bring a shoulder length Dyneema to thread the pin if you really need to protect those easy moves. 11a feels right if you have no sandy holds and have the top wired. Dec 6, 2016
Dan Swann
Colorado Springs
Dan Swann   Colorado Springs
Please remember chalk is not allowed in The Garden. There are plenty of legal options sold at the Mountain Chalet. Brad Saren and myself spent the afternoon scrubbing the chalk and tick marks from this climb. Mar 26, 2018
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
Correction: the first ascent information is incomplete. First ascent: Ed Webster & Peter Mayfield on June 27, 1979. Yes, Ed drilled a 5 pin aid ladder to equip the climb & then led it free with Peter seconding it free. I was there watching the work in progress & taking photos. They continued up Over The Rainbow. The upper section, past the crux, was very run-out without the last pin. The year of a first ascent is of real importance, to put the climb into a historical context. This is definitely a great pitch with good stone. It should also be noted that this route starts by climbing the first 50 feet of Borgoff's Blunder. Where Borgoff's Blunder moves right, Rainbow Bridge moves left. Jan 5, 2019