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Routes in West Face

Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Men at Work T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pillar Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Ed Webster
Page Views: 5,203 total · 25/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is a good route on the North side of Gateway Rock. It ascends a wide crack that is also the start of Men At Work but continues up and left. The crack leads to a small pedestal where you can rest before starting the hard climbing. Traverse left across a series of potholes protected by drilled pins. After about 25', head straight up on thin face holds (crux) to a bolted anchor above. The pitch is 90'. Ric Geiman's book calls this route 10+, and it may have been when Ed Webster did the first ascent but it has become very slick at the crux and some of the holds have worn away making it very difficult for 5.10....

Protection

8 or 9 draws and some large cams for the start.

Photos

Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11-
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11-
For the sport climbers dying to get on this, the first 25' crack is about 5.7 hands/fists; so either solo to the first pin or protect with BD #2s-#4s or some bigger hexes. Extend the living shit out of these though, along with the first two pins, to avoid heinous rope drag. The second pin is placed so that any whip would snap your biner from cross-loading over a blunt edge. Bring a shoulder length Dyneema to thread the pin if you really need to protect those easy moves. 11a feels right if you have no sandy holds and have the top wired. Dec 6, 2016
matt bruton
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10d
matt bruton   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10d
Hands down my favorite route in The Garden. Dec 1, 2013
dancesatmoonrise
  5.11a
dancesatmoonrise  
  5.11a
Rolofson calls it 5.11- (Hubbel & Rolofson, 1988, p 236.) Nov 18, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
New favorite line in the Garden... but yeah, after discussing with other climbers, I think it's safe to say it's now in the 11a range. Whatever that's worth - do it. Nov 10, 2012
dancesatmoonrise
  5.11a
dancesatmoonrise  
  5.11a
One of the pins above the potholes fell out this past June. We climbed it in May, it was there. In July, it was gone. It is still leadable without it, but it would sure would be safer if the missing one were replaced - along with the half-out ringed piton that starts the potholes traverse.

Along with T-Ex and Anaconda, one of the best routes in the Garden. Oct 31, 2012
GREAT climb, crux crimp gets smaller and smaller ...I think .10d now. Sep 25, 2008
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
Agree. It is difficult for 5.10. The potholes are the neatest part of the route. Apr 28, 2004
gumbi  
One of my favorite routes in The Garden although slick. After the first pitch, I usually go right to a 60ft aid traverse. Then either straight up over a small overhang or right on some very loose rock to a 5.6 last pitch. A beautiful route to enjoy as the sun sets! Sep 24, 2003

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