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Routes in West Face

Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Men at Work T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pillar Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
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Type: Trad, Sport, 105 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Mark Rolofson, 1982.
Page Views: 3,004 total · 14/month
Shared By: Dave Chenault on Oct 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details


Climb the handcrack until level with some pockets and a drilled pin is up and right, place a cam or two (double ropes would be very useful here, otherwise you must runner this piece until it is virtually useless) and head right and up, supplementing the poor pin with some strategic tricams (three smallest). Head straight up, discovering a welcome pin drilled inside a pothole. Encounter the one move 5.11 crux dyno (the route goes at 5.9 A0 by pulling and standing on the pin here) which is very height-dependent, harder if short. Follow the pins to the top, passing a bit of loose rock. The pin anchor is 35 meters up, so if you have a single 60m, you must downclimb the crack, which is easy. Vintage Garden fun.


This route starts at a left-leaning 5.5 handcrack ~100 feet south of the Blowouts bouldering pit. It follows an old pin ladder past many huge, nifty potholes.


Many drilled pins of variable quality. Bring a #3 Friend and some small tricams for the start. Some slings for tying off shallow pins. Fixed anchor.


Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
The crux is well-protected. Other sections of the route are a bit run-out but on easier climbing. However, I still thought the route was pretty sustained at 9+ and 5.10, with the crux and maybe one or two other harder moves. Classic Garden route. A 70m rope works great for a TR. Oct 9, 2004
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
I regret to inform everyone that while leading this route this afternoon, the key flake at the crux dyno move finally broke off. I cleaned it up and worked it for a while and could not get the same move, as it now goes to a sloping, sandy hold. I think it can be solved, and I know if you can get beyond the dyno move, the next move is now a difficult mantle. However, in my weakened and pumped condition, I could not solve the problem, so not sure how hard it might now be, but definitely more difficult. Mar 16, 2007
phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
phil wortmann   Colorado Springs, Co.
Did this route yesterday for the first time. I didn't see a need for any pro besides quick draws, although the first pin is a bit high. I found the crux dynamic move to be pretty stiff, (.11c-ish?) and the hold was very small and very sandy. Apr 20, 2008
The dyno move has gotten even harder. The ledge broke that you throw to sometime during the summer now just a little crimp. GOOD luck, throw to the right now. Sep 25, 2008
matt bruton
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.11 PG13
matt bruton   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.11 PG13
Right for sure. and unless you have nuts like Bob, the hollow rock behind some of the pins on the upper section are hard to trust. imo. Dec 27, 2010
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
I did this climb over the summer and got off of it BARELY with a 60m. YMMV. Dec 27, 2010
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
Single 60m is ok for rap. Apr 5, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Sweet route! This is quintessential Garden climbing. Oct 11, 2013

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