Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Mark Rolofson, April 1983
Page Views: 3,126 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dave Chenault on Oct 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

Climb the handcrack until level with some pockets and a drilled pin is up and right, place a cam or two (double ropes would be very useful here, otherwise you must runner this piece until it is virtually useless) and head right and up, supplementing the poor pin with some strategic tricams (three smallest). Head straight up, discovering a welcome pin drilled inside a pothole. Encounter the one move 5.11 crux dyno (the route goes at 5.9 A0 by pulling and standing on the pin here) which is very height-dependent, harder if short. Follow the pins to the top, passing a bit of loose rock. The pin anchor is 35 meters up, so if you have a single 60m, you must downclimb the crack, which is easy. Vintage Garden fun.

Location

This route starts at a left-leaning 5.5 handcrack ~100 feet south of the Blowouts bouldering pit. It follows an old pin ladder past many huge, nifty potholes.

Protection

Many drilled pins of variable quality. Bring a #3 Friend and some small tricams for the start. Some slings for tying off shallow pins. Fixed anchor.

Photos

Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
The crux is well-protected. Other sections of the route are a bit run-out but on easier climbing. However, I still thought the route was pretty sustained at 9+ and 5.10, with the crux and maybe one or two other harder moves. Classic Garden route. A 70m rope works great for a TR. Oct 9, 2004
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
I regret to inform everyone that while leading this route this afternoon, the key flake at the crux dyno move finally broke off. I cleaned it up and worked it for a while and could not get the same move, as it now goes to a sloping, sandy hold. I think it can be solved, and I know if you can get beyond the dyno move, the next move is now a difficult mantle. However, in my weakened and pumped condition, I could not solve the problem, so not sure how hard it might now be, but definitely more difficult. Mar 16, 2007
phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
  5.11c
phil wortmann   Colorado Springs, Co.
  5.11c
Did this route yesterday for the first time. I didn't see a need for any pro besides quick draws, although the first pin is a bit high. I found the crux dynamic move to be pretty stiff, (.11c-ish?) and the hold was very small and very sandy. Apr 20, 2008
The dyno move has gotten even harder. The ledge broke that you throw to sometime during the summer now just a little crimp. GOOD luck, throw to the right now. Sep 25, 2008
matt bruton
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.11 PG13
matt bruton   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.11 PG13
Right for sure. and unless you have nuts like Bob, the hollow rock behind some of the pins on the upper section are hard to trust. imo. Dec 27, 2010
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
I did this climb over the summer and got off of it BARELY with a 60m. YMMV. Dec 27, 2010
erik rieger
Sheridan, WY
erik rieger   Sheridan, WY
Single 60m is ok for rap. Apr 5, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Sweet route! This is quintessential Garden climbing. Oct 11, 2013
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.11b/c R
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.11b/c R
First ascent date correction: April 1983. I drilled most of pins, except for the first one. The route was first established to an anchor at 75 ft. on lead. Then, I equipped the upper route on rappel. Bob was the first person to free the entire pitch, after I fell at the last pin. We both led the route from the ground on the first try on many occasions after the first ascent. I feel I should have given this climb the R rating in "Soft Touch III" due to the long 5.8 runout after the 1st drilled pin. Years ago after 1997, (the year I published Soft Touch III) I meant to add a bolt or drilled pin to this runout. I led it dozens of times between 1983 & 1997. If you are a seasoned 5.11 Garden climber, it's not that big of a deal, but I can imagine someone (especially a visiting climbers) finding it to be a real pant loader. If you are careful, the runout has good holds, but it's definitely dangerous. The "welcome pin inside a pothole" in this section wasn't originally there. The last time I did the climb this pin was there, but it's a long ways up to it. If my memory serves me correctly, it is not in the first pothole you encounter, but a much higher one. The leader must not fall. The climbing above is very well-protected & quite enjoyable. It would be great to see all the drilled pitons upgraded to long bomber bolts & bottom part of the climb retro-bolted. There were 10 drilled pins plus 1 fixed pin in the crack inside giant pothole ledge / 3 drilled pin anchor. My guide shows the descent is 130 ft. This is incorrect if you can get down with a 70 meter (235ft.) rope or barely with a 60 meter rope. 110-115 ft. seems more accurate. We had 50 meter (165ft.) ropes in the 1980s. I am surprised that climbers were able barely get down with a 60 meter rope (200 ft). Be careful! Lowering down may take a bit more rope, due to the way the start angles from the nuts in the crack on Borgoff's Blunder. Jan 10, 2019