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Routes in West Face

Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Men at Work T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pillar Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: [FA: Harvey Carter and Cleve McCarty FFA: Mark Rolofson And Jeff Britt]
Page Views: 1,990 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brian T. Wandzilak on Jan 17, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details


To correct previous wrongs (see description of Fastest Drill), I've decided to enter a separate description for Unzipped.

Unzipped is the left-most route on the Cowboy Boot Crack Face. It is three bolts to a two bolt anchor. The "s" rating is given due to the long, unprotected opening traverse. You can TR the mostly unprotected Warren-Johnson route to the left from these anchors. A 60m rope will reach the main platform, but as always tie knots in the end of the rope to be sure.

From the main platform, traverse left to the farthest line of bolts. It is not hard climbing, but mentally it can get to you a bit. Head up the obvious bolt line, staying more or less to the left of the line. Step up the commiting move above bolt #2 and grab edges and a final hueco before the anchors.


3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.


Rik Anderson
C/S, Colorado/Talkeetna, Alask
Rik Anderson   C/S, Colorado/Talkeetna, Alask
"The Zipper": After you have done the first pitch, don't forget about the next 2 pitches going to the top of Tweedle Dum Spire. They're harder than the first pitch .11b & .9. From the belay, look up you'll see the line of pins going up. If you go straight up, it's A2 for the first 30 feet, then .11b, or you can climb up and a tad to the R. and then traverse back to the left after roughly 30ft. Then on to the summit of the spire. Rappel down FA: Harvey Carter and Cleve McCarty FFA: Mark Rolofson And Jeff Britt. Jun 24, 2006
Chris Mack
  5.7 X
Chris Mack  
  5.7 X
This is R/X. If you fall on this while on the traverse, you are fucked. It is still a good line to do a few times. Sep 27, 2007
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
The traverse can be protected with 2 small Camalots (I think I used a 0.4 small gray and a #002 C4 yellow - but I could be slightly off on these).

I used a piece of cord and a rap ring and extended the top bolt of the anchor so that the two bolts are equalized if rapping off and top-roping the Warren-Johnson (also known as Mike's Face). This should also work to better equalize the anchor if trying to get back to the ledge below Cowboy Boot Crack (but that is not recommended due to the potential pendulum). Nov 21, 2007
SAL   broomdigiddy
I posted "The Zipper" as its own route recently. Rik's beta is a bit diffent them mine as I do not think I climbed 30 ft before getting on the face. I climbed directly to the first pin and started up from there. May be sandy and and difficult climbing, but it avoids any A2 which I don't know why anyone would try to nail this now.; Feb 3, 2009

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