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Routes in West Face

Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Men at Work T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pillar Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Ed Webster, Mack Johnson, Dave Sweet, 4/78
Page Views: 1,637 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian T. Wandzilak on Jan 1, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

The route name could also by the "Quickest Drill". Traverse left from the Cowboy Boot Crack ledge to the leftmost line of bolts. It is a long exposed traverse with zero protection. Once you clip the first hanger, head up. The crux is just above the second bolt. It is a balancy step up. Commit to it, clip the third bolt and get to the anchors. This can be top-roped (like Trigger Finger and Cowboy Boot Crack) from the large ledge, barely. The belayer should tie a knot in the end of your rope (as always) and be prepared to step up the rock a bit.

Addendum: follow the first 2 or so pins on Trigger Finger. When TF goes straight up, you can follow Fastest Drill to the left. It shares the same anchors as Unzipped. They are kind of left of center at the bottom of the dome (about even with the climber's feet in the Trigger Finger pic).

Protection

5 QDs for 5 bolts/pins plus two anchor pins (all of them solid).

The anchor pins have been replaced with 2 large bolts.

Photos

Jon Cannon  
 
One brief comment: As Brian woefully discovered, the best route is to head *straight* to the left. Don't angle left and up toward the first pin, go straight left and then up to the pin. For the third bolt, ya just gotta commit. A very enjoyable route. And, as much as I hate to admit it, nice lead, Brian. Jan 10, 2003
Jon Cannon  
 
One other thing: if the belayer anchors into that big-ass rock down on that broad area at the base of Cowboy Boot Crack, s/he *should* be able to arrest the intrepid leader's fall before s/he decks. Jan 14, 2003
Thanks for the props, JC. It was fairly satisfying I have to admit. I only have one problem with the route though. I am still waiting for a member of the Nebraska contingent to sac up and lead this thing. Apr 30, 2003
ATTENTION: After further research and guidebook consultation, this route is NOT named "Fastest Drill". The real route name is "Unzipped" and it is in the Falcon guide as a 5.7+. All over the other beta is correct though. Like I said in the route description this is way more run out than a 5.7 should be, but a fun route nonetheless.

For more clarification, here is some beta on the actual "Fastest Drill" route. Fastest Drill follows the first 2 or so pins on Trigger Finger. When TF goes straight up, you can follow Fastest Drill to the left. It shares the same anchors as Unzipped. They are kind of left of center at the bottom of the dome (about even w/ the climber's feet in the Trigger Finger Pic). Oct 10, 2003
Larry Shaw  
 
For a good TR variation, climb to the second bolt of Unzipped, then head straight up to the last bolt of Fastest Drill...there are some blank sections but enough edges to suffice...I give it a .9 or .10. Dec 24, 2003
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
If you want, it is possible to place a good cam on the traverse, but hard to say if it would help much anyway. About 1/2". May 16, 2008

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