Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Andy Casler, Sept. 8, 2018
Page Views: 464 total · 55/month
Shared By: Andy Casler on Sep 10, 2018
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A fun crack and face climb. Makes you get out on lead in the crux.

Start at the offwidth crack that's just left of The Beanstalk Crack (or start on Jack Crack). Decide between climbing up easy, but questionable, basalt edges in the back of the crack -- or stack your hands and make a few offwidth moves. The offwidth quickly constrains into a short fist/hand crack and leads to a small ledge. Climb above the ledge using flaring cracks and reach a few more gear placements (funky looking 0.75 cam, but maybe a big stopper or offset stopper would fit well here.) Continue up the flaring cracks, clipping two bolts in the crux, and then mantle onto a ledge. From here, follow easy crack up to a bolted anchor.

Location

Ten feet left of Beanstalk Crack.

Protection

Single rack to No. 4 camalot. A No. 5 camalot would be nice at the start but it is not necessary.

Photos