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Routes in The Northeastern Crags

Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Br'er Rabbit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shapeshifter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squeeze Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steady Yeti T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yeti Beats T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Amy Colburn, Mark Sprague, Robert Hall
Page Views: 995 total, 20/month
Shared By: amy colburn on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Starts in a right facing corner (photo) about 30 feet left of Big Foot's arete.

Pitch 1:(5.10a) Climb the face and corner, with the crux after good gear about half way up at a bulge. Continue up the corner to a two bolt anchor at the base of an alcove.

Pitch 2:(5.10 b/c) Climb into the alcove and exit up a slabby face on the right. Transition onto the main face at the top of the slab and head straight up following the path of least resistance to the base of the right-diagonalling crack. Follow this diagonal crack to its top at a two bolt anchor. Rappel twice with a 60 meter rope, or once with a seventy.

With enough gear and a 70m rope you can combine both pitches. A 60m is a little tight to lower from the top with the rope going through the gear. Breaking it into two allows the belayer to see what is going on while climbing up the side of the alcove and there is less rope drag though.

Protection

Both pitches take mostly good gear. A single rack of camalots to number two, with doubles of grey to green helpful, and a few small to medium nuts for the second pitch. Bring more cams, slings and a 70m rope if combing the two pitches.
M Sprague
New England
  5.10c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10c
Beta - I think it really helps on the upper crack to keep your body to the right rather than getting sucked into semi laybacking it to the left like I see some do it. Staying right allows you to get your hands in deeper for the great jams. Aug 5, 2014
amy colburn  
 
I'm not at all set on the grade so if people think it's 10d we can upgrade it! Aug 5, 2014
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
  5.10d PG13
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
  5.10d PG13
Really good route with adequate pro. Got spit out of the top crack twice. Hard for the grade IMHO. Aug 4, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.10c PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.10c PG13
Kinda glad to hear it's "kicking butts for the grade" [even at "b/c" ?!]. It seemed quite a bit more strenuous, and more sustained than I expected. I said "No Way 5.10a", so Amy put it in as b/c, but maybe harder??? As I recall, about 1/2 way up the crack the slab on the right of the crack has/had(?) some of that 'powdery lichen' that loves to blow off your feet...anybody brush it yet?!....or maybe I should have been jamming my feet????..
As for the pro, my recollection on cleaning it was that it was all solid except for between the exit and the start of the crack where a cam or two are placed "down" into a sunken horizontal crack...Tricams would probably work better. However, the climbing in this section is a couple of grades easier than the crux crack, maybe 5.8 +/-?, and easier than P1.

Nov 20, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.10c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10c
I removed the couple of obvious death flakes from the route Friday, but it could still use some cleaning. That may have to wait until spring as I was shuffling through snow when out there so the gate will likely be closed soon. I personally think it needs a bolt in the middle section of the second pitch, as the gear likely wouldn't hold much more than a falling cat. Other than that, it will be a great route when brought up to full spec, and seems to be kicking people's butts for the grade (hint- get right of the crack at the top and you can get your hands in deeper for good jams)

Update - Things are much cleaner now and I found a shoulder sling draped over the rounded flake where you make the transition to the upper face works well. It feels slightly heady doing the balancy moves above the flake, but you are soon getting in good nuts and cams. Just before the flake, if you do a move or two out right the horizontal provides a bomber cam placement and better fall line (extend it with a sling) Oct 28, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.10c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10c
So far, Arron. Everything else has at least one bolt so far, usually down low to get you to a crack. I think there will be some pure trad lines though. Oct 11, 2013
Looks great, is this the first route out there with no bolts (besides anchors)? By the time I get back to the Northeast this place will be a regular craggin' destination! Keep up the good work. Oct 9, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.10c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10c
This is a really nice route! The first pitch can feel a little awkward until you figure out to chimney a couple moves in the corner (back to the left), but the second pitch leads up out the right side of the alcove to the upper face climbed via a great angling finger and hand crack. This jam crack at the top is what makes the route for me. Oct 8, 2013
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Nice job ABC ! Oct 8, 2013
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.10c PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.10c PG13
Re' Protection- A Gold (#8) B-D Stopper fits in the "wide way" to protect the move out from the slab to the face on P2. Oct 8, 2013