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Routes in The Northeastern Crags

Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Br'er Rabbit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shapeshifter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squeeze Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steady Yeti T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yeti Beats T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Sprague, Jason Milford 9/27/2013
Page Views: 778 total, 15/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 30, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Start as for Farewell Ronald McDonald about 30-40 feet right of the chimney /corner of Jolly Green Giant. After the second bolt continue up the finger crack a little and place a good nut with a long sling, step down, then angle left on good face holds to get to the base of a left facing corner with a bolt just below it. A short draw here will keep your rope from rubbing over the sharp arete. Continue up the corner crack with good gear, saving one or two smallest cams for the final bulge below an alcove with a bolted anchor.

Location

About 35' to the right of the sharp arete of Bigfoot Was Here. Look for a couple bolts leading up to a thin vertical crack running through a bulge, with a nice left facing corner to the left starting half way up, with another bolt just below it. The shared start with Farewell RMcD is often wet. It is worth pulling through to the first bolt if needed, as the rest of the route dries quickly.

Protection

3 bolts, rack to 3", some runners. Save a couple thinnest cams for the top. I think I used the old style .1 Camalot (red?) for my last piece. A stick clip or spot is recommended if the start is damp.

The bolts above the first belay is a partially bolted and cleaned (some loose rock to trundle) project link pitch to gain access to rock above.

Photos

Max Dismukes
North Quincy, MA
 
Max Dismukes   North Quincy, MA
 
The start was dry this past weekend, and I didn't feel a stick clip was necessary. You can get a bomber .5 C4 before doing the harder moves and clipping the first bolt.

This route and Farewell Ronald McDonald were both quite fun May 31, 2016
Rob Albert
  5.10a
Rob Albert  
  5.10a
A stick clip is almost mandatory, as you would not want to blow the first few moves, which were wet when we did this climb. The slab below it is way too hard to do a direct, so you have to come in from the side. At the top, make sure to stay right, as the bolt to the left is on the other climb (12). The top out for that isn't too hard, but it is awkward, and I clipped those anchors from a crappy mantle move. After you get into the crack/ corner, the climb is fun, and takes great gear. Minus 1 star due to the traverse. Follow Mark's suggestion with long/ short runners, as it is spot on - you want to keep your rope off the sharp arete. Sep 8, 2014