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Routes in The Northeastern Crags

Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Br'er Rabbit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shapeshifter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squeeze Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steady Yeti T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yeti Beats T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Max Dismukes and Ben Lariviere 5/28/2016
Page Views: 336 total · 17/month
Shared By: Max Dismukes on May 31, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Start on the (presently dirty) left-rising ramp and step left, or alternatively crank a tricky and powerful boulder problem to get established in the crack. Climb up with a good finger jam or two, a hand jam, and an undercling to stand up in the wide pod. Get a #5 BD nut up and left in a little slot in the crack and then launch into the crux. Technical footwork and sidepull crimps on the edge of the crack, which is much too thin for even baby fingers to fit in, will get you to a decent fingertip jam. More footwork will bring you to better finger jams and another wide pod in the crack. The technical crux is over at this point. Pumpy and interesting moves on positive holds will get you standing on a little ledge, where you can fully recover if you need it, before finishing up the last couple moves to another ledge with a two bolt anchor (thanks to Mark Sprague for popping that in for us).

I really enjoyed this route, and hope people get out there and climb on it! Could use a little love still, especially at the start. The grade is a suggestion, please share your opinion...might be easier when it gets cleaned up a bit more.

I'd like to note that this route was put up in honor of our friend Justin Graham, who died tragically last year. Justin was a strong, bold, and humble climber, a generous friend, and a brilliant inventor and engineer. He could also beat just about anyone in chess. He is missed by everyone who was lucky enough to know him.

Location

This route ascends the right of two thin, left-angling cracks, which you can find by following the cliff right and uphill from Farewell Ronald McDonald. You will come to this section of cliff before the chimney that marks the start of Brer Rabbit.

Protection

A single rack of nuts and cams to #3 C4 will more than sew it up. Small offset nuts help to protect the crux but are not totally necessary. The small #4 and #5 BD nuts are crucial, micro cams won't fit.

Photos

benlariv
  5.10c
benlariv  
  5.10c
Great route. Feels hard when trying to onsight but is a bit easier when you figure out the beta. Worth climbing. May 31, 2016