Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Northeastern Crags

Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Br'er Rabbit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shapeshifter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squeeze Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steady Yeti T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yeti Beats T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Mark Sprague, Jason Milford 10/16/2013
Page Views: 705 total · 12/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Oct 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Please don't throw me into that chimney! This one is a bit hidden and you can't see much of the great climbing above from the base. Stick clip the first bolt, then head up the short chimney. Hint - if you want to keep the chimney moves non awkward, move your body into the chimney past the seam that runs up the right wall and layback the seam a few moves. Stem the last bit of chimney as it opens up and continue up the fun, bolt protected face with cool juggy holds and a couple bulges with more balancy thin moves. Clip the last bolt with a shoulder length sling and move left to gain a corner with a pillar making up the left side. Don't forget to lengthen the first couple pieces in the corner. Kneebar the corner and bearhug the pillar until you can mantle onto its top. Move right to a bolted anchor.

Location

About 150 feet to the right of the Bigfoot arete there is a big right facing corner with a 20 foot tall chimney in the back with a line of bolts running up the face just right of it.

Protection

9 bolts and a little gear for the top corner (I used 0.4 and .5 Camalots, #2 WC Rock and a small fixed wire. Bring a few small wires in case it is missing), a few shoulder length alpine draws, bolted anchor - 60 m rope (watch the ends). I was using a 70m, but I am pretty sure a 60 would be fine.

Photos

- No Photos -
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Mark- your going to get a rep being near all this wide stuff Oct 18, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.10c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10c
Dere be mo'e out dere. Oct 18, 2013

More About Br'er Rabbit

Printer-Friendly