Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Mark Sprague, Jason Milford 10/16/2013
Page Views: 765 total · 12/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Oct 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Please don't throw me into that chimney! This one is a bit hidden and you can't see much of the great climbing above from the base. Stick clip the first bolt, then head up the short chimney. Hint - if you want to keep the chimney moves non awkward, move your body into the chimney past the seam that runs up the right wall and layback the seam a few moves. Stem the last bit of chimney as it opens up and continue up the fun, bolt protected face with cool juggy holds and a couple bulges with more balancy thin moves. Clip the last bolt with a shoulder length sling and move left to gain a corner with a pillar making up the left side. Don't forget to lengthen the first couple pieces in the corner. Kneebar the corner and bearhug the pillar until you can mantle onto its top. Move right to a bolted anchor.

Location

About 150 feet to the right of the Bigfoot arete there is a big right facing corner with a 20 foot tall chimney in the back with a line of bolts running up the face just right of it.

Protection

9 bolts and a little gear for the top corner (I used 0.4 and .5 Camalots, #2 WC Rock and a small fixed wire. Bring a few small wires in case it is missing), a few shoulder length alpine draws, bolted anchor - 60 m rope (watch the ends). I was using a 70m, but I am pretty sure a 60 would be fine.

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BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Mark- your going to get a rep being near all this wide stuff Oct 18, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.10c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10c
Dere be mo'e out dere. Oct 18, 2013