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Magic Beans
5.10c,
Trad, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 3 from 11
votes
FA:
Andy Casler, Sept. 8, 2018
New Hampshire
> WM: Kancamagus…
> Greens Cliff
> Northeastern Crags
Description
A fun crack and face climb. Makes you get out on lead in the crux.
Start at the offwidth crack that's just left of The Beanstalk Crack. Decide between climbing up easy, but questionable, basalt edges in the back of the crack -- or stack your hands and make a few offwidth moves. The offwidth quickly constrains into a short fist/hand crack and leads to a small ledge ...Or just start on Jack Crack, which dries quicker.
Climb above the ledge using flaring cracks and reach a few more gear placements (funky looking 0.75 cam, but maybe a big stopper or offset stopper would fit well here.) Continue up the flaring cracks, clipping two bolts in the crux, and then mantle onto a ledge. From here follow easy crack up to a bolted anchor.
Location
Ten feet left of Beanstalk Crack.
Protection
Single rack to No. 4 camalot. A No. 5 camalot would be nice at the start but it is not necessary.
[Hide Photo] The rope follows the general line of Magic Beans. X marks the bolts.
[Hide Photo] Protection before the crux. The top cam is an offset 1/2 mastercam.
New England
Northfield, NH
New England
Northfield, NH
New England
Did you try climbing that scoopy corner between Beanstalk and Magic Beans while you had a rope up? It is probably too squeezed to bolt, but I thought it would be a cool, probably much harder TR alternative start to Magic Beans. Sep 11, 2018
Here it is folks:
"I've basically "HAD" to clean 3 routes at once to figure out how they all fit in"
now that's alot of red tagging... Sep 20, 2018
New England
We’ve had this conversation before. I had scattered projects from before when hardly anyone else was going out there and I was working with conditions, available partners and what they wanted to get on, and yes sometimes strategic planning on how future routes will interact. Probably at least half of the routes you guys have FAed out there I had previously put a bunch of work into and wasn’t possessive and red tagged. I think my 2 beanstalk projects are the only ones I have tags on, possibly one at the alcove that ended up being wet a lot that people can go for if they want( may need one more bolt) I don’t know why some of you guys are so pushy when there are so many great lines to do out there. Sep 21, 2018
Victor, MT
Edit: and I agree that if you're comfortable with 5.8/5.9 offwidth then a #5 is not necessary, I went up it with just up to #4, and you have to wait until 15-20 feet up until they are useful, but its not too hard before then. Aug 26, 2019
Salt Lake