Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Northeastern Crags

Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Br'er Rabbit T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shapeshifter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squeeze Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steady Yeti T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yeti Beats T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 8/24/14 Amy Colburn, Tom Bowker - 2nd pitch Amy Colburn and Mark Sprague Aug 13/2015
Page Views: 1,109 total, 28/month
Shared By: amy colburn on Sep 6, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The prominent chimney on the Beanstalk wall. The chimney was formed by a vein of weaker blocky rock, basalt, I think, which forms the back of the chimney. Climb the chimney until you can see through the 'box' to the upper section. You may want to pass the rack through ahead of you so you don't get jammed! Squeeze through the box and continue to the top via more chimney, crack, and some bear hugging moves on the final block.

Location

When you hike up the trail to the Beanstalk wall, the chimney is right in front of you when the trail meets the wall.

Protection

All trad gear to two bolted ring anchors. I used one large nut (for the first piece) and some of one set of cams to a #3 (for one of last pieces). All the gear goes in the granite- don't bother to place any in the basalt. When you rappel, toss the rope to climbers' right so that it doesn't get stuck in the cracks when you pull it. **yes, there is still some loose rock, it's an adventure climb!
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Amy lead the second pitch this past week. Grade is maybe 5.8++, but a pretty adventurous feeling one. I wouldn't send anyone up it on lead if inexperienced and pushing their limit as placing some of the gear may be a little strenuous and barndoory to check, and you want to check them well to see that they are in the good rock. This climb is not completely civilized, despite the bolted anchors on both pitches :) But what a cool feature! Recommended if you like a little adventure. Aug 16, 2015
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Sure..AMY fits in the chimney !! Sep 12, 2014
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
 
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
 
I'm not a big fan of chimneys but this was a fun pitch. Impressive leap into the unknown by Amy! Sep 10, 2014
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Memorable. Sep 8, 2014