Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches
FA: 8/24/14 Amy Colburn, Tom Bowker - 2nd pitch Amy Colburn and Mark Sprague Aug 13/2015
Page Views: 2,075 total · 24/month
Shared By: Amy Colburn on Sep 6, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

Squeezebox is the prominent chimney on the Beanstalk wall. The chimney was formed by a vein of weaker blocky basalt which forms the back of the chimney. Climb the chimney, finding gear in the granite along the way until you reach the flat chockstone that used to form the base of the 'box'. Step up on this and get gear (1/2 to 1") in the crack on climber's left or large gear in the offwidth on the right at first. Layback and bearhug your way up with good jams on the right side of the blocks to the two-bolt ring anchor. The second pitch is still an adventure and not as easily protected as the first. 

**(retained for historical purposes, description previous to October 2020: Climb the chimney until you can see through the 'box' to the upper section. You may want to pass the rack through ahead of you so you don't get jammed! Squeeze through the box and continue to the top via more chimney, crack, and some bear hugging moves on the final block.)

Location

When you hike up the trail to the Beanstalk wall, the chimney is right in front of you when the trail meets the wall.

Protection

All trad gear to two bolted ring anchors. I used one large nut (for the first piece) and some of one set of cams to a #3 (for one of last pieces). All the gear goes in the granite- don't bother to place any in the basalt. When you rappel, toss the rope to climbers' right so that it doesn't get stuck in the cracks when you pull it. **yes, there is still some loose rock, it's an adventure climb!

Photos