Type: Trad, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 8/24/14 Amy Colburn, Tom Bowker - 2nd pitch Amy Colburn and Mark Sprague Aug 13/2015
Page Views: 1,332 total · 23/month
Shared By: amy colburn on Sep 6, 2014
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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The prominent chimney on the Beanstalk wall. The chimney was formed by a vein of weaker blocky rock, basalt, I think, which forms the back of the chimney. Climb the chimney until you can see through the 'box' to the upper section. You may want to pass the rack through ahead of you so you don't get jammed! Squeeze through the box and continue to the top via more chimney, crack, and some bear hugging moves on the final block.


When you hike up the trail to the Beanstalk wall, the chimney is right in front of you when the trail meets the wall.


All trad gear to two bolted ring anchors. I used one large nut (for the first piece) and some of one set of cams to a #3 (for one of last pieces). All the gear goes in the granite- don't bother to place any in the basalt. When you rappel, toss the rope to climbers' right so that it doesn't get stuck in the cracks when you pull it. **yes, there is still some loose rock, it's an adventure climb!


M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Memorable. Sep 8, 2014
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
I'm not a big fan of chimneys but this was a fun pitch. Impressive leap into the unknown by Amy! Sep 10, 2014
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Sure..AMY fits in the chimney !! Sep 12, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Amy lead the second pitch this past week. Grade is maybe 5.8++, but a pretty adventurous feeling one. I wouldn't send anyone up it on lead if inexperienced and pushing their limit as placing some of the gear may be a little strenuous and barndoory to check, and you want to check them well to see that they are in the good rock. This climb is not completely civilized, despite the bolted anchors on both pitches :) But what a cool feature! Recommended if you like a little adventure. Aug 16, 2015