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Routes in Mt. Gorgeous

Born on the 4th of July S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Build The Wall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Burn The Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camel Straight S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Choss Is A Ladder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cialis Stud S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cig-arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb it Change S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Commitment Issues S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack Horror S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicious S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Family Jewel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Feats of Strength S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feel The Bern S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gorgeous S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
K-2 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Luscious S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Malibu's Most Wanted S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Marauding Monkeys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pow! Right in the Kisser S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Project S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Simon Says S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Swipe Right To Match S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: TF/JT/SL
Page Views: 1,989 total · 77/month
Shared By: Todd Fertig on Mar 14, 2016
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fact: the top 1% of climbers can climb over 95% of established routes while the bottom 90% can't even lead 5.11c. This is inherently unfair in a free (climbing) society! No one who climbs 40 hours a week should struggle to send this climb.

The route starts off on some easy jugs up a slab (like climbing with a safety net), but the higher up you get, the more taxing this climb becomes. There are some rests to be found but it's all business to the top. A few long draws will help prevent rope drag.

Note: all bolts manufactured in the US by a for-profit corporation.

Location

This left-wing route begins on the sloping rock on the far right side of the base of Mt. Gorgeous. Shares anchors with Marauding Monkeys. There's a double-length fixed draw halfway up.

Protection

11 bolts plus 1 fixed draw halfway up. Double chain/mussy-hook anchor (same anchor as Marauding Monkeys). Long draws on the two bolts over the roof prevents rope drag.

Photos

Justin Kenderes
Glendale, CA
Justin Kenderes   Glendale, CA
This route has a red tag on the first bolt. Does anyone know why? Apr 19, 2016
Todd Fertig  
 
You're getting confused with the project to the left of Feel The Bern. That one is still under construction. Feel the Bern starts on the sloping rock and has tan colored hangers on the first bolt. The project has steel colored hangers. It is two lines right of the Delicious/Marauding Monkeys bolts. Apr 19, 2016
paul rose
  5.11c
paul rose  
  5.11c
makes me want to climb at malibu more... ok maybe not... but great route. long for malibu with interesting movements. need good endurance to finish it as climb keeps on going. could use a bit more cleaning on it. not a bad idea for belayer to wear a helmet. Apr 25, 2016
When I saw the new development ongoing in the white choss under the anchor of Marauding Monkeys, I was extremely skeptical... Boy was I wrong!!!
Feel the Bern, Build the wall, and Rush 'n' reset are super fun and great additions to this wall. Nov 21, 2016
jasman  
great addition to Gorgeous Nov 30, 2016
Joe Wysznski  
 
Great movement on this one, classic for the area. Jun 26, 2017
Dustin Stephens
  5.11a/b
Dustin Stephens  
  5.11a/b
Nice route. Long draws helpful. Dec 23, 2017
Stranger Danger   GA
 
A great route with super fun movement. The length and grade alone make it stand out as a MC classic.

If you're working this route, I recommend taking two long-draws or alpine draws. There are two bolts towards the top, recessed into large huecos. Not a drag issue but falling above one of these will maim your rope-side biner as it rests on the lip of the rock. Mar 8, 2018

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