Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Todd Fertig, James Tolins & Scott Lunsford
Page Views: 4,352 total · 68/month
Shared By: Todd Fertig on Mar 14, 2016
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park. Details

Description

Fact: the top 1% of climbers can climb over 95% of established routes while the bottom 90% can't even lead 5.11c. This is inherently unfair in a free (climbing) society! No one who climbs 40 hours a week should struggle to send this climb.

The route starts off on some easy jugs up a slab (like climbing with a safety net), but the higher up you get, the more taxing this climb becomes. There are some rests to be found but it's all business to the top. A few long draws will help prevent rope drag.

Note: all bolts manufactured in the US by a for-profit corporation.

Location

This left-wing route begins on the sloping rock on the far right side of the base of Mt. Gorgeous. Shares anchors with Marauding Monkeys. There's a double-length fixed draw halfway up.

Protection

11 bolts plus 1 fixed draw halfway up. Double chain/mussy-hook anchor (same anchor as Marauding Monkeys). Long draws on the two bolts over the roof prevents rope drag.

Photos