Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: TF
Page Views: 1,005 total · 24/month
Shared By: Todd Fertig on Jul 26, 2015
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Swipe right up some attractive shelves until you can match on the obvious hueco. Then for the ugly face, swipe left. Move through a sustained 3-bolt crux involving shallow holes, a flake, and a throw (some would call desperate) until you get on easier terrain to the anchor. Great for those looking to heel hook up the climb.

Note: Online photos of this climb tend to be more attractive than the climb actually is.

Location

2 routes right of Crack Horror but left of Cialis Stud (the climb with the two fixed draws). Starts with the series of shelves moving to the right.

Protection

9 bolts with triple mussy hook anchor (middle anchor has a long chain)

Photos

Ben Iseman
Toronto, Ontario
Ben Iseman   Toronto, Ontario
Fun moves through the shelves leads to an unnecessary, and painful, chipped pocket. The rest of the climb is choss. Worth doing. Needs more traffic, and some glue for the chipped pocket. Feb 2, 2016
Todd Fertig
Redondo Beach, CA
  5.11c
Todd Fertig   Redondo Beach, CA
  5.11c
All the dope beta: youtube.com/watch?v=W2l2J-N… Jun 20, 2018