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Malibu Creek State Park Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Malibu Creek State Park

Century Lake Area 0 / 30 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32

Crags Rd. Crag's 0 / 4 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Ghetto Wall 0 / 34 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35

Malibu Pinnacle 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Mt. Gorgeous 0 / 36 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36

Planet of the Apes Wall 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17

Stumbling Blocks 0 / 18 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21

Toddler Terrace 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Wave Wall, The 0 / 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Elevation:	635 ft
GPS:	34.09609, -118.73099 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	780,714 total · 3,925/month
Shared By:	Jordan Katz on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park. Details

Description

Malibu Creek State Park is a state park established in 1974 to preserve the Malibu Creek canyon in the Santa Monica Mountains west of Los Angeles. The park encompasses 8,215 acres and offers a wide variety of quality sport climbing and developed bouldering, as well as, excellent top-rope routes on the Planet of the Apes Wall. The Park offers over 100 bolted sport climbs, ranging from 5.5 - 5.14, on steep pocketed volcanic rock. While climbing is extremely popular at Malibu Creek State Park, we share this popular destination with hikers, swimmers, mountain bikers, and a variety of other users. Please practice courtesy and careful stewardship to help preserve this treasure for all communities.

Park is open from sunrise to sunset; no dogs are allowed.

Getting There

The park is located four miles south of Highway 101 on Las Virgenes/Malibu Canyon Road. There is a $12 fee for parking within the Park, but a free alternative exists by turning right (west) on Mulholland Hwy from Las Virgenes Road and parking on either side of the highway where the Grasslands Trail cuts through the Park. Due to the quality of the fire roads that traverse the park the approach is straightforward, especially via mountain bike.

163 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Malibu Creek State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 110 ● Power Station Sport Century Lake Area > Power Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 218 ● Family Jewel Sport Mt Gorgeous
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 107 ● Rolling Blackout Sport Century Lake Area > Power Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 208 ● Mr. Big Sport Stumbling Blocks
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 158 ● Delicious Sport Mt Gorgeous
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 214 ● Johnny Can't Lead Sport Ghetto Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 137 ● Planet of the Apes TR Planet of the Apes Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 148 ● Marauding Monkeys Sport Mt Gorgeous
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 180 ● Luscious Sport Mt Gorgeous
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 85 ● Feel The Bern Sport Mt Gorgeous
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 113 ● Letterbox Sport Stumbling Blocks
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 142 ● Urban Struggle Sport Ghetto Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 81 ● Ground Zero Sport Ghetto Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 84 ● The Drifter Sport Century Lake Area > Drifter Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 89 ● Pow! Right in the Kisser Sport Mt Gorgeous