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Elevation: 635 ft 194 m
GPS: 34.09609, -118.73099
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Shared By: Jordan Katz on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Malibu Creek State Park is a state park established in 1974 to preserve the Malibu Creek canyon in the Santa Monica Mountains west of Los Angeles. The park encompasses 8,215 acres and offers a wide variety of quality sport climbing and developed bouldering, as well as, excellent top-rope routes on the Planet of the Apes Wall. The Park offers over 100 bolted sport climbs, ranging from 5.5 - 5.14, on steep pocketed volcanic rock. While climbing is extremely popular at Malibu Creek State Park, we share this popular destination with hikers, swimmers, mountain bikers, and a variety of other users. Please practice courtesy and careful stewardship to help preserve this treasure for all communities. 

The rock at Malibu Creek State Park is pillow basalt breccia or volcanic ash that has lithified into solid rock known as welded tuff like that at Smith Rock in central Oregon. Though it contains hard fragments, it's not "volcanic" and impervious to rain in the way some think. This particular volcanic breccia is a rock type that contains very angular, hard, but broken volcanic fragments in a matrix held together by finer softer grained material. It needs the same 2-3 days to dry. Geological Gems of California State Parks on the park website details that the pillow basalt is now pillow basalt breccia in that area bec their once large solid structures had long been broken up and intermixed with ocean sediments.  Besides, the walls' deep pockets tend to remain wet and slimy even though the wall at first look dry enough.  All the more reason to wait a few days after rain for the pockets to fully dry.

Park is open from sunrise to sunset; no dogs are allowed.

Getting There Suggest change

The park is located four miles south of Highway 101 on Las Virgenes/Malibu Canyon Road. There is a $12 fee for parking within the Park, but a free alternative exists by turning right (west) on Mulholland Hwy from Las Virgenes Road and parking on either side of the highway where the Grasslands Trail cuts through the Park. Due to the quality of the fire roads that traverse the park the approach is straightforward, especially via mountain bike.

169 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Malibu Creek State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 327
Gorgeous
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 240
Family Jewel
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 217
Mr. Big
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 172
Delicious
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 226
Johnny Can't Lead
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 147
Planet of the Apes
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 153
Marauding Monkeys
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 197
Luscious
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 93
Feel The Bern
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 33
Monkey Sang, Monkey Do
TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 43
An Inconvenient Roof
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 36
Burn The Wall (LINK UP)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 145
Urban Struggle
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 86
The Drifter
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 34
Ghetto Blaster
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gorgeous Mt Gorgeous
 327
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Family Jewel Mt Gorgeous
 240
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mr. Big Stumbling Blocks
 217
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Delicious Mt Gorgeous
 172
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Johnny Can't Lead Ghetto Wall
 226
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Planet of the Apes Planet of the Apes Wall
 147
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Marauding Monkeys Mt Gorgeous
 153
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Luscious Mt Gorgeous
 197
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Feel The Bern Mt Gorgeous
 93
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Monkey Sang, Monkey Do Planet of the Apes Wall
 33
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
An Inconvenient Roof Mt Gorgeous
 43
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Burn The Wall (LINK UP) Mt Gorgeous
 36
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Urban Struggle Ghetto Wall
 145
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Drifter Century Lake Area > Drifter Wall
 86
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ghetto Blaster Ghetto Wall
 34
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Malibu Creek State Park »

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