Elevation: 635 ft
GPS: 34.096, -118.731 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 635,484 total · 3,554/month
Shared By: Jordan Katz on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park. Details

Description

Malibu Creek State Park is a state park established in 1974 to preserve the Malibu Creek canyon in the Santa Monica Mountains west of Los Angeles. The park encompasses 8,215 acres and offers a wide variety of quality sport climbing and developed bouldering, as well as, excellent top-rope routes on the Planet of the Apes Wall. The Park offers over 100 bolted sport climbs, ranging from 5.5 - 5.14, on steep pocketed volcanic rock. While climbing is extremely popular at Malibu Creek State Park, we share this popular destination with hikers, swimmers, mountain bikers, and a variety of other users. Please practice courtesy and careful stewardship to help preserve this treasure for all communities. 

Park is open from sunrise to sunset; no dogs are allowed.

Getting There

The park is located four miles south of Highway 101 on Las Virgenes/Malibu Canyon Road. There is a $12 fee for parking within the Park, but a free alternative exists by turning right (west) on Mulholland Hwy from Las Virgenes Road and parking on either side of the highway where the Grasslands Trail cuts through the Park. Due to the quality of the fire roads that traverse the park the approach is straightforward, especially via mountain bike.

156 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Malibu Creek State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 202
Chopping Block
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 208
Kathmandu
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 264
Gorgeous
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 100
Power Station
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 185
Family Jewel
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 97
Rolling Blackout
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 189
Mr. Big
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 135
Delicious
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 190
Johnny Can't Lead
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 122
Planet of the Apes
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 136
Marauding Monkeys
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 157
Luscious
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 99
Letterbox
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 120
Urban Struggle
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 75
The Drifter
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chopping Block Stumbling Blocks
 202
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Kathmandu Ghetto Wall
 208
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Gorgeous Mt Gorgeous
 264
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Power Station Century Lake Area > Power Wall
 100
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Family Jewel Mt Gorgeous
 185
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rolling Blackout Century Lake Area > Power Wall
 97
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Mr. Big Stumbling Blocks
 189
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Delicious Mt Gorgeous
 135
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Johnny Can't Lead Ghetto Wall
 190
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Planet of the Apes Planet of the Apes Wall
 122
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Marauding Monkeys Mt Gorgeous
 136
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Luscious Mt Gorgeous
 157
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Letterbox Stumbling Blocks
 99
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Urban Struggle Ghetto Wall
 120
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Drifter Century Lake Area > Drifter Wall
 75
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Malibu Creek State Park »

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