Elevation: 635 ft
GPS: 34.09609, -118.73099
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Jordan Katz on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park. Details

Description

Malibu Creek State Park is a state park established in 1974 to preserve the Malibu Creek canyon in the Santa Monica Mountains west of Los Angeles. The park encompasses 8,215 acres and offers a wide variety of quality sport climbing and developed bouldering, as well as, excellent top-rope routes on the Planet of the Apes Wall. The Park offers over 100 bolted sport climbs, ranging from 5.5 - 5.14, on steep pocketed volcanic rock. While climbing is extremely popular at Malibu Creek State Park, we share this popular destination with hikers, swimmers, mountain bikers, and a variety of other users. Please practice courtesy and careful stewardship to help preserve this treasure for all communities. 

Park is open from sunrise to sunset; no dogs are allowed.

Getting There

The park is located four miles south of Highway 101 on Las Virgenes/Malibu Canyon Road. There is a $12 fee for parking within the Park, but a free alternative exists by turning right (west) on Mulholland Hwy from Las Virgenes Road and parking on either side of the highway where the Grasslands Trail cuts through the Park. Due to the quality of the fire roads that traverse the park the approach is straightforward, especially via mountain bike.

163 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Malibu Creek State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 110
Power Station
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 218
Family Jewel
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 107
Rolling Blackout
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 208
Mr. Big
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 158
Delicious
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 214
Johnny Can't Lead
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 137
Planet of the Apes
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 148
Marauding Monkeys
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 180
Luscious
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 85
Feel The Bern
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 113
Letterbox
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 142
Urban Struggle
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 81
Ground Zero
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 84
The Drifter
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 89
Pow! Right in the Kisser
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Power Station Century Lake Area > Power Wall
 110
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Family Jewel Mt Gorgeous
 218
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rolling Blackout Century Lake Area > Power Wall
 107
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Mr. Big Stumbling Blocks
 208
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Delicious Mt Gorgeous
 158
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Johnny Can't Lead Ghetto Wall
 214
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Planet of the Apes Planet of the Apes Wall
 137
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Marauding Monkeys Mt Gorgeous
 148
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Luscious Mt Gorgeous
 180
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Feel The Bern Mt Gorgeous
 85
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Letterbox Stumbling Blocks
 113
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Urban Struggle Ghetto Wall
 142
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ground Zero Ghetto Wall
 81
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Drifter Century Lake Area > Drifter Wall
 84
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pow! Right in the Kisser Mt Gorgeous
 89
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Malibu Creek State Park »

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