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Routes in Mt. Gorgeous

Born on the 4th of July S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Build The Wall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Burn The Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camel Straight S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cialis Stud S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cig-arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb it Change S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Commitment Issues S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Crack Horror S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicious S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Family Jewel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Feel The Bern S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gorgeous S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
K-2 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Luscious S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Marauding Monkeys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pow! Right in the Kisser S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swipe Right To Match S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Unknown Feb '05
Page Views: 6,811 total, 78/month
Shared By: Joe Dondero on Sep 27, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Sharing the first 4 bolts of Delicious the route heads up easy slab to a big hueco. Then it starts heading right over a bulge to a big hole (it seems that there is possibly an owl living here at the moment). Rest here for the crux is next followed by an easy but exposed finish to chains. Route probably gets its 11a rating for the pure enduro fest required to send. The route sees a lot of sun and can be brutal hot during the summer when shaded areas are more comfortable.

Location

The obviously really long route at Mt. Gorgeous starting at Delicious that heads up, to the right, and out of sight.

Protection

15 bolts to chains
Helmet for belay
60m will barely do it, 50m will not.

Photos

Sherie Lou
Washington, DC
 
Sherie Lou   Washington, DC
 
Absolutely amazing climb. Was a little reachy for me at the bottom (I'm 5'0'), but the whole climb flowed so well. Took 15 draws, and we extended 3 of them (3rd, 4th, and....one towards the top...maybe 12?). Had new anchors when we went up. Cleaning was kind of a b*tch since the route veered right. Feb 6, 2016
Christian B
West Hills, California
  5.11a
Christian B   West Hills, California
  5.11a
Exactly what Will said, terrible to clean because of the climb in which you head upwards to the right, but worth it if you've made it. Great climb and the distance makes it all the better once you get to the top! Oct 20, 2015
Will Cornell
  5.11a
Will Cornell  
  5.11a
This route is great! Its a perfect testpiece for those who are looking to reach in the 5.11 ratings -- it was my first 5.11. BETA ALERT: there are two big holes in the wall that you can litterally climb into and sit in to rest. If you are trying to get a flash/redpoint then be sure to get a good rest at the second hole, because the hardest move is right after. However I would say that the real crux is simply surviving the pump on this very long route. ALSO: this route is kind of hard to clean, so I would suggest having a friend follow you up on TR to take the draws out Aug 17, 2014
7-21-2012 There was a large beehive just past where the two routes split off, might still be the other one farther up, but cant tell.
My partner got stung so be aware

just FYI Jul 23, 2012
Xan Calonne
Joshua Tree, Ca
 
Xan Calonne   Joshua Tree, Ca
 
Beehive at ledge before anchors as of 5/15/12. Unpleasant surprise. Ha. May 16, 2012
steple  
This route is best cleaned by following. Jul 12, 2011
It's a barn owl. Last weekend I was just slipping my leg into the cave for a kneebar rest/clip when our eyes met and it shot out like a rocket past me. Not sure who was more scared.

Beautiful bird. I hope it sticks around and I'll try to leave it undisturbed next time. Jun 17, 2011
David Kozak  
 
I did this route last week. As I pulled up to the hueco a raptor flew out. I think it was a hawk, goldish in color, maybe an owl. All I know is that it was big and as I was trying to hang on I didn't get a great look. My belayer thought it was an owl. As we are from Colorado we aren't familiar with the birds of the area.

BTW, the route was fun. Mar 13, 2011