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Routes in Ghetto Wall

Bat Cave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Best Laid Plans S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brenna S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Brenna Crossing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bush Pig S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carnal Corner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crybaby S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cut the Cord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Darkest Hour S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Directpissima S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghetto Blaster S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ghetto Crossing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ground Zero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hole Patrol S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Johnny Can't Lead S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kathmandu S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Labor and Deliverance S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lateralus S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Lonesome Stranger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maximum Ghetto S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mississippi Mud S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Projects (aka Street Science), The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Skeezer Pleaser S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stink Finger S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stun Gun S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Suburban Struggle TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Urban Sprawl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Urban Struggle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wet Willy S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dave Katz and Tom Grimes, 1985
Page Views: 8,818 total, 66/month
Shared By: veritus on Dec 11, 2006
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Follows the line of large pockets between the right two caves. Very solid 5.10d. Last moves are beta intensive

Protection

5 bolts, three open shuts
Robert Arthur Bustamante
San Pedro, CA
Robert Arthur Bustamante   San Pedro, CA
what size wrench or socket is it? 5 days ago
October 28, 2017

4th bolt still spinning, didn't have my wrench Oct 28, 2017
Lena
Ojai, CA
Lena   Ojai, CA
Got on this today; the 4th bolt hanger was spinning and the nut was loose. We didn't have a tool but tightened it as best we could. Oct 9, 2017
somillionaire Viradia
Los Angeles, California
  5.11-
somillionaire Viradia   Los Angeles, California
  5.11-
Good climb, especially the top moves where it gets a little more exciting. The couple of moves at the top give it barely just enough added pump to break into 11a but I could see it being 10d still. Apr 11, 2014
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
This was by far the best route I got on during a single day exploration of the area. It had a fluidity of movement that some of the other thuggy jug hauls in the canyon lacked. Jan 13, 2014
3rd bolt is now a 1/2" x 4 3/4" Stainless Powers 5-piece Bolt. 4th bolt got tightened but it may loosen again... Sep 1, 2011
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10d
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10d
3rd or 4th bolt of the climb is a spinner, so careful. Also PLEASE put your own draws up top of you are planning to set up TR for friends. A lot of the anchors on this wall and rest of the area show A LOT of wear and almost dangerous to climb on.

p.s.
Didn't do the climb before the extension, but still felt like 10d Apr 28, 2011
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
 
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
 
This climb is much improved with the new bolt considering that it is at the crux section (for me). I feel much better pulling that now and not worrying about those two old manky spinners. Jun 9, 2010
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
  5.11a
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
  5.11a
As of today, the upper two bolts have been replaced, both with 1/2" X 3" bolts. The second bolt will be changed out soon.

The climb should be more enjoyable now without the spinners.

I agree with the .11a rating. Oct 26, 2009
scottydo
ventura, ca
  5.11a
scottydo   ventura, ca
  5.11a
This is 11a now since the climb goes up to an anchor that is higher than the previous ones. This also adds a couple harder moves at the end of the climb bumping up the grade in my opinion. Oct 11, 2009
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.10
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.10
I think it's a fun route, I'm surprised it received so few stars. Granted the overhanging jug hauling so common at Malibu can get boring, but I think this one is far better than many other in the park around this level; and there’s a little bonus at the end of this one. Reminds me of Mr. Big or Rolling Blackout. Sep 2, 2008