Elevation: 650 ft
GPS: 34.098, -118.734 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 58,004 total · 412/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Aug 28, 2007 with updates from davidhousky
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: New Access Difficulties Details

Description

A smaller (yet growing), secluded section of climbing near Century Lake featuring an unusually large proportion of moderates for Malibu Creek. Same quality rock as the rest of the park and just as well bolted. There is one main wall here (The Power Wall) hosting several decent sport routes, and a couple smaller sections of developed rock scattered around. There are also some boulders that can be climbed further down the wash, some of which have bolts put in to top rope because of questionable landings.

Getting There

Hike into the park as usual and veer right up into the hills just past the visitor's center (if you stayed on the access road instead of the hiking trail just stay on the road). Continue on the road for maybe 10 minutes as you wind your way up into the hills, until you reach the top of the hill. Immediately on your left you should see a small pathway leading sharply downwards towards the dam. Follow this path down to the dam (which you should see almost immediately), keeping the lake on your right, around a fence blockade, and over the left side of the dam. You can choose to go the long way (down the ladder on the right) or the short way, over the fence to the left. Head forward a small ways then scramble down some rocks into the wash, on your right are two medium sized sections of detached rock next to the dam; the first is Drifter Wall, and the second, next to the dam, is Little Cheops. If you cross the wash and follow it downstream for 100 meters or so you will find a large wall on your left, The Power Wall. Directly across from it is a small section of rock known as The Water Wall.

29 Total Climbs

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Location: Century Lake Area Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Century Lake Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 67
Scarab
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 91
Powder Puff Girls
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 66
Power Ranger
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 56
Power Grid
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 82
Power Station
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Waterworld
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Fissure Man
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 11
Waterboy
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 46
Electric Eye
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 80
Rolling Blackout
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Epitaph
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 34
Pick Pocket
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
The Shadow
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
Fallout
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 61
The Drifter
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Scarab Little Cheops
 67
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Powder Puff Girls Power Wall
 91
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Power Ranger Power Wall
 66
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Power Grid Power Wall
 56
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Power Station Power Wall
 82
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Waterworld Water Wall
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Fissure Man Water Wall
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Waterboy Water Wall
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Electric Eye Power Wall
 46
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rolling Blackout Power Wall
 80
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Epitaph Tombstone
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pick Pocket Lean To Boulder
 34
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Shadow Drifter Wall
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Fallout Drifter Wall
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Drifter Drifter Wall
 61
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Century Lake Area »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Barbed wire currently blocks access at the dam. I guess you could crawl around- we did not as there were rangers on horseback there today. Aug 20, 2015
Spider Savage
Los Angeles, ID
Spider Savage   Los Angeles, ID
I have it from reliable source in Government that there is a solid plan to take down the dam and restore the up stream environment. Part of the rational is to restore natural fish spawning territory.

It may take several years still but I have seen the plan. All of the silt and debris that currently fill the dam will need to be relocated so we will need to endure a period of heavy trucking in the area.

Long term impact should be great for climbing with better access and opening of possible new routes currently under ground. Please be patient when this work begins. Feb 1, 2017
Christian .
West Hills, CA
Christian .   West Hills, CA
New gate blocking actual access to the ladder. Have to go around the top side. Nov 16, 2017
Jeff Lee11
Thousand Oaks, CA
Jeff Lee11   Thousand Oaks, CA
Christian, how does one get around the top side? Jan 21, 2018
Christian .
West Hills, CA
Christian .   West Hills, CA
Climb over the fence, get a little smear on the rock, hit the jug rail on the fence, mantle, smear the rock on the other side, and down climb to the cement. Boom then you're at the path. Good little warm up, probably V1. Jan 24, 2018
Jeffery Ma
Los Angeles, CA
Jeffery Ma   Los Angeles, CA
If you want to save time on the walk to this crag, you can actually drive up Mulholland to the Rifleman's Ranch and park in the pull out there. You will see an electrical box to indicate the pull out (fits about 5 cars). goo.gl/maps/txAx6G7GUGD2

Follow the trail (Cistern Trail and it hooks up with the Lookout Trail) to the damn. You gotta hop the fence on the dam and either take the service stairs or go over the top and around (the latter is preferable).

This saves you a lot of time from the normal route but is also much steeper. The hike back up definitely took its toll with a full pack of gear and rope. Sep 10, 2018