Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Long, Joe Kristy
Page Views: 5,445 total · 43/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 1, 2008 with updates from Alistair Chang
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

102 Opinions

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The route starts out vertical on good pockets and gets slightly overhanging by the last bolt (.10-ish). The crux comes between the last bolt and the anchor on mostly vertical ground (.11?).


On the left side of Mount Gorgeous. Scramble up some 5.0 for about 15 feet to the first bolt, traverse left a bit, and follow up to the anchor.


4 Bolts to Mussy hooks


Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
allegedly redpointed by the infamous spiritual criminal snoop on his 24th burn. Dec 14, 2009
Los Angeles
Alexander   Los Angeles
This route felt a lot easier than 11C/D than the book claims it is. The holds are huge and plentiful, and it's fairly short. It gets interesting at the top, more like strong 11A? Dec 28, 2009
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
I think the route could go 5.11c or 5.11a depending on how you finish from the last bolt to the anchors. If you stay true to the bolt line and resist the urge to go out the huge heuco on the right side, then I think 11c is the grade, that huge hold, which feels a tad off route is probably 11a. Aug 18, 2010
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
Bolts were already in place when Joe Kristy and I did the FA in 2000. Much choss and loose blocks for the first few ascents. By 2006 it had cleaned up nicely. Probably 5.11c if you keep a direct line. Aug 29, 2010
Colin Brochard
Colin Brochard   Austin
Super fun, kinda a proj for me last year and my only 11c redpoint to date. While it is a jug haul it is very pumpy with big moves and a definite redpoint crux through deep sharp pockets at the very end. Took the fall from the chains more than once, very clean. Nov 17, 2010
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
Reasonable amount of grit in the pockets if there hasn't been recent traffic. Falls above the second bolt or so are pretty much clean. Don't forget to clip to the belay side of the rope when cleaning! Nov 28, 2011
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
Anchors replaced November 3 2013. Thanks to the ASCA and Fixe Hardware. Nov 15, 2013
Has anyone over tried dynoing from the bottom set of huecos (3rd bolt) to the top hueco?

It's almost a 7-8 foot gap, but it would avoid the crux of going right on crimpers. May 13, 2014
Christian .
West Hills, CA
Christian .   West Hills, CA
This route is dope! Powerful moves up a nice overhanging wall. Haven't seen anyone on it whenever I am at creek. 1st bolt - 2nd along with going from last - anchors is where it gets tricky. Jan 4, 2017
Sent this climb yesterday.. kinda spooky. Someone cleared the gates off of the anchor so only the rings remained. Had to use indirect to personal anchor to the rings then run the rope through the rings to set up a rappel from the top. Gear was gathered from the rappel. Will go back soon and leave gates at the top. Jan 5, 2018