Elevation: 678 ft
GPS: 34.096, -118.73 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 113,433 total · 633/month
Shared By: veritus on Jan 3, 2007 · Updates
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park. Details

Description

Mt. Gorgeous offers some of the longest routes at Malibu Creek State Park and has become one of the most popular destinations within the canyon. This area has a high concentration moderate climbs for the beginner to advanced level sport climber. This side of the canyon stays in the shade in the morning and due to the canopy of trees the base of routes receive shade beyond midday. A rack of 16 quickdraws, plus anchors, will be sufficient for climbing at Mt. Gorgeous. A couple long draws can help with rope drag on a few routes. Be aware that bees/wasps frequently inhabit the pockets on this wall.

Getting There

Find the 5.5 traverse. Follow the wall up and left into the canyon just after the traverse.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Gorgeous

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 269
Gorgeous
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 189
Family Jewel
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 51
Climate Changed
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 137
Delicious
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 26
Wanna Get High
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 138
Marauding Monkeys
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 160
Luscious
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 58
Cig-arete
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 69
Feel The Bern
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 43
Malibu's Most Wanted
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 21
An Inconvenient Roof
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 26
Commitment Issues
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 24
Burn The Wall
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 74
Pow! Right in the Kisser
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Simon Says
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gorgeous
 269
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Family Jewel
 189
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Climate Changed
 51
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Delicious
 137
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Wanna Get High
 26
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Marauding Monkeys
 138
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Luscious
 160
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Cig-arete
 58
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Feel The Bern
 69
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Malibu's Most Wanted
 43
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
An Inconvenient Roof
 21
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Commitment Issues
 26
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Burn The Wall
 24
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Pow! Right in the Kisser
 74
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Simon Says
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Gorgeous »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: West
Sunny Roughly 1pm to 6pm during high season
6am
8pm

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