Description

Mt. Gorgeous offers some of the longest routes at Malibu Creek State Park and has become one of the most popular destinations within the canyon. This area has a high concentration moderate climbs for the beginner to advanced level sport climber. This side of the canyon stays in the shade in the morning and due to the canopy of trees the base of routes receive shade beyond midday. A rack of 16 quickdraws, plus anchors, will be sufficient for climbing at Mt. Gorgeous. A couple long draws can help with rope drag on a few routes. Be aware that bees/wasps frequently inhabit the pockets on this wall.

Getting There

Find the 5.5 traverse. Follow the wall up and left into the canyon just after the traverse.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: Mt. Gorgeous Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Gorgeous

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 202
Gorgeous
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 132
Family Jewel
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 45
Climb it Change
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 99
Delicious
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 95
Marauding Monkeys
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 33
Cig-arete
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 27
Feel The Bern
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 20
Malibu's Most Wanted
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 102
Luscious
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
Commitment Issues
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Choss Is A Ladder
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Poison Stoke
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 36
Pow! Right in the Kisser
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Burn The Wall
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gorgeous
 202
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Family Jewel
 132
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Climb it Change
 45
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Delicious
 99
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Marauding Monkeys
 95
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Cig-arete
 33
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Feel The Bern
 27
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Malibu's Most Wanted
 20
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Luscious
 102
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Commitment Issues
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Choss Is A Ladder
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Poison Stoke
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Pow! Right in the Kisser
 36
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Burn The Wall
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Gorgeous »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Ryan Kelly
work.
Ryan Kelly   work.
It's the 5.0 traverse (the first traverse), if that, over the rock pool. The 5.5 traverse is further down the canyon, on the way to The Ghetto.

Morning shade, afternoon sun. Sep 20, 2007
ShaunG Gregg
SF, CA
ShaunG Gregg   SF, CA
There is a "newer" route on the far right of the wall. It starts climbing a flake then pulling onto a chossy slab. Does anyone know what this goes at and what it is called? Jan 3, 2010
Ryan Kelly
work.
Ryan Kelly   work.
According to RC.com it's called Scorpion Crack and goes at .11b. Still looked pretty chossy when I saw it several months ago, and it looked like it should be more in the 5.10 range once it cleans up, but I'll hold off judgment until I get on it. Mar 26, 2010
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
I've climbed Scorpion Crack - it has some glue/epoxy in places, but nothing came off. I took one fall on the onsight attempt and that was going for the 5th bolt and I just misjudged the distance. I'm inclined to think 5.10d for this route. It was fun to climb. The route immeadiately left of this is probably a 5.10b/c and is worth a go as well. Nov 9, 2010
Wow, this area is hard to find. Luckily we ran into a couple that pointed it out to us. Immediately after the traverse (5.0, 5.5, who knows) there is a canyon that runs steeply up to the left (assuming you're facing upstream). It runs perpendicular to the stream and the main canyon. You have to scramble over some boulders to find it. That is where this area is.

We didn't even notice that there was a canyon there! Dec 2, 2015