Elevation: 526 ft
GPS: 34.098, -118.729 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 68,424 total · 374/month
Shared By: Jordan Katz on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal nesting swallow closure NOW LIFTED - All routes open Details

Description

Planet of the Apes Wall is a very popular top-roping wall in Malibu Creek State Park. This is the location where footage was shot for "Planet of the Apes" and the M.A.S.H. television series. This 60-foot wall hosted the earliest roped climbing in the park and has been limited to top-roping. There are many sets of bolted anchors on the summit. The wall can be crowded on weekends and the routes on the left end of the wall get set up early. Due to the walls popularity it is common for parties of climbers to set up top-ropes and then share their ropes with other parties. This community environment allows everyone to maximize their time on the wall. Routes not to be missed include; Planet of the Apes (5.11a), and Monkey Sang, Monkey Do (5.11d).

The wall is in the shade in the morning and late afternoon, but can be warm on sunny days.

Getting There

At the parking lot, continue towards the visitor center, cross a creek and turn left (south). Formation on the right. Approach 15-25 minutes.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Planet of the Apes Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 110
Christmas Pump
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 104
Shock the Monkey
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Spiker Monkey
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 126
Planet of the Apes
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Finger Prints
TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 49
Birthday Boy
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 42
Spider Monkey
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
The Crack
TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 32
Monkey Sang, Monkey Do
TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
Spank the Monkey
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Gorilla of My Dreams
TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 15
Gorilla Warfare
TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Monkey Business
TR
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Apes of Wrath
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Christmas Pump
 110
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Shock the Monkey
 104
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Spiker Monkey
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Planet of the Apes
 126
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Finger Prints
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Birthday Boy
 49
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Spider Monkey
 42
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
The Crack
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Monkey Sang, Monkey Do
 32
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
Spank the Monkey
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a TR
Gorilla of My Dreams
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
Gorilla Warfare
 15
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b TR
Monkey Business
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b TR
Apes of Wrath
 3
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b TR
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