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Routes in Planet of the Apes Wall

Apes of Wrath TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Birthday Boy TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Christmas Pump TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Finger Prints TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorilla of My Dreams TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grape Ape TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guerilla Warfare TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Monkey Business TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Sang, Monkey Do TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Planet of the Apes TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shock the Monkey TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Simian Survival TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spank the Monkey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spider Monkey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walking on the Moon TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Description

Planet of the Apes Wall is a very popular top-roping wall in Malibu Creek State Park. This is the location where footage was shot for "Planet of the Apes" and the M.A.S.H. television series. This 60-foot wall hosted the earliest roped climbing in the park and has been limited to top-roping. There are many sets of bolted anchors on the summit. The wall can be crowded on weekends and the routes on the left end of the wall get set up early. Due to the walls popularity it is common for parties of climbers to set up top-ropes and then share their ropes with other parties. This community environment allows everyone to maximize their time on the wall. Routes not to be missed include; Planet of the Apes (5.11a), and Monkey Sang, Monkey Do (5.11d).

The wall is in the shade in the morning and late afternoon, but can be warm on sunny days.

Getting There

At the parking lot, continue towards the visitor center, cross a creek and turn left (south). Formation on the right. Approach 15-25 minutes.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Planet of the Apes Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Popular - definitely.

Even though Planet of the Apes is a "toprope only" crag, I would NOT recommend it as a good choice for beginners. The easiest route is 5.9, and everything else is 5.10+ and above. Dec 15, 2006
Isaac T.
Oceanside, CA
Isaac T.   Oceanside, CA
I thought that Grape Ape (the 5.9), and a few other routes on this wall were sandbaged. A few other people climbing at the crag agreed with me. the 5.9 had super deep solid pockets almost all the way up and when the hand holds were not huge the feet were solid. There were a few beginners when I was there, and since it was TR only you have no problem putting caution to the wind and getting a good work out. Feb 19, 2007
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
So why is this a top rope only area? Seems a waste of the most easily accessed cliff in the Santa Monica Mountains. Or to put it another way, these routes could be better than Echo because the rock hurt the hands less.

Jan 26, 2009
Rob M
Shangri-LA
Rob M   Shangri-LA
Beginners will pump out immediately and then get frustrated. Take them to Point Dume. Therenis some stuff on stumbling blocks that would be better for them, but then they have to make the creek traverse without falling in.... Jul 15, 2011
Teeburee
Urbana, IL
Teeburee   Urbana, IL
Can someone please explain to me why an overhung wall is top rope only? The swing from the anchor makes getting back onto the climb after falling off nearly impossible on a few routes. If the routes under the roof were bolted, they would be bomber and falls wouldn't have quite the swing. Genuinely curious since the rock is SO GOOD and it is a bummer just having to start over after a fall. May 31, 2018

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