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Planet of the Apes Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Planet of the Apes Wall
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Apes of Wrath TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Birthday Boy TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Christmas Pump TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crack, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Finger Prints TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gorilla of My Dreams TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gorilla Warfare TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Grape Ape TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monkey Business TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monkey Sang, Monkey Do TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Planet of the Apes TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shock the Monkey TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Simian Survival TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Spank the Monkey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spider Monkey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spiker Monkey TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Walking on the Moon TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Elevation: | 526 ft | 160 m |
| GPS: |
34.09765, -118.72905 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 81,331 total · 367/month | |
| Shared By: | Jordan Katz on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park.
Details
Access Issue: Seasonal nesting swallow closure NOW LIFTED - All routes open
Details
Context:
On 6/2/2021 Malibu Creek State Park staff contacted representatives from the Access Fund, SCMA, and SoCal Climbing regarding climber disturbances of cliff swallow nests on Planet of the Apes. Disturbing these nests is a federal crime under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act.
Prior to a formal closure order being issued, the park agreed to give the climbing community the opportunity to resolve the issue internally through voluntary temporary route closures. The following routes need to be avoided:
Spiker Monkey 5.10c
Spider Monkey 5.11b
Finger Prints 5.11a
Planet of the Apes 5.11a
Birthday Boy 5.11b
The Crack 5.11b
Gorilla of My Dreams 5.12c
Gorilla Warfare 5.12b
Apes of Wrath 5.12d
We are actively monitoring the nest and will announce when they are reopened.
Description
Planet of the Apes Wall is a very popular top-roping wall in Malibu Creek State Park. This is the location where footage was shot for "Planet of the Apes" and the M.A.S.H. television series. This 60-foot wall hosted the earliest roped climbing in the park and has been limited to top-roping. There are many sets of bolted anchors on the summit. Most are about 10 feet from the cliff, so be prepared with anchor gear to keep your climbing rope from scraping on the top of the wall. The wall can be crowded on weekends and the routes on the left end of the wall get set up early. Due to the walls popularity it is common for parties of climbers to set up top-ropes and then share their ropes with other parties. This community environment allows everyone to maximize their time on the wall. Routes not to be missed include; Planet of the Apes (5.11a), and Monkey Sang, Monkey Do (5.11d).
The wall is in the shade in the morning and late afternoon, but can be warm on sunny days.
Classic Climbing Routes at Planet of the Apes Wall
Sun Angles Details:
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