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California
> Los Angeles Basin
> Santa Monica Mo…
> Malibu Creek SP
> Planet of the Apes Wall
Gorilla Warfare
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.4 from 16
votes
Routes in Planet of the Apes Wall
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Apes of Wrath TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Birthday Boy TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Christmas Pump TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crack, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Finger Prints TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gorilla of My Dreams TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gorilla Warfare TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Grape Ape TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monkey Business TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monkey Sang, Monkey Do TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Planet of the Apes TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shock the Monkey TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Simian Survival TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Spank the Monkey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spider Monkey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spiker Monkey TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Walking on the Moon TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Jack Marshall, 1994 |
| Page Views: | 3,825 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | RussellG on Nov 5, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park.
Details
Access Issue: Seasonal nesting swallow closure NOW LIFTED - All routes open
Details
All routes currently OPEN
Context:
On 6/2/2021 Malibu Creek State Park staff contacted representatives from the Access Fund, SCMA, and SoCal Climbing regarding climber disturbances of cliff swallow nests on Planet of the Apes. Disturbing these nests is a federal crime under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act.
Prior to a formal closure order being issued, the park agreed to give the climbing community the opportunity to resolve the issue internally through voluntary temporary route closures. The following routes need to be avoided:
Spiker Monkey 5.10c
Spider Monkey 5.11b
Finger Prints 5.11a
Planet of the Apes 5.11a
Birthday Boy 5.11b
The Crack 5.11b
Gorilla of My Dreams 5.12c
Gorilla Warfare 5.12b
Apes of Wrath 5.12d
We are actively monitoring the nest and will announce when they are reopened.
Context:
On 6/2/2021 Malibu Creek State Park staff contacted representatives from the Access Fund, SCMA, and SoCal Climbing regarding climber disturbances of cliff swallow nests on Planet of the Apes. Disturbing these nests is a federal crime under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act.
Prior to a formal closure order being issued, the park agreed to give the climbing community the opportunity to resolve the issue internally through voluntary temporary route closures. The following routes need to be avoided:
Spiker Monkey 5.10c
Spider Monkey 5.11b
Finger Prints 5.11a
Planet of the Apes 5.11a
Birthday Boy 5.11b
The Crack 5.11b
Gorilla of My Dreams 5.12c
Gorilla Warfare 5.12b
Apes of Wrath 5.12d
We are actively monitoring the nest and will announce when they are reopened.
Description
15 feet to the right of Planet of the Apes you will find Gorilla Warfare. This route has some simple moves down low to a big jug about 10 feet up. From here continue on the small pockets to the sequential throw to the slopey pockets and then high step (crux) and move off the small crimps to the big flake. Continue up the big flake to a final roof sequence at the top. Brilliant!
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