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Routes in Mt. Gorgeous

Born on the 4th of July S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Build The Wall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Burn The Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camel Straight S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cialis Stud S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cig-arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb it Change S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Commitment Issues S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Crack Horror S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicious S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Family Jewel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Feel The Bern S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gorgeous S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
K-2 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Luscious S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Marauding Monkeys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pow! Right in the Kisser S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swipe Right To Match S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant and John Long, 2001
Page Views: 5,159 total, 43/month
Shared By: Levy on Jan 29, 2008
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

One of the best in the park, this route has become very popular. It begins on the right end of the wall and begins on whitish/tan rock heading up & left up to a large bathtub sized hueco. From there you go up & out the right side, & power through a steep bulge where you'll find the crux(5.10+)getting to the 7th bolt. The upper 40 feet of this route are on amazing rock and it's only 5.9+. 10 bolts to sport anchors. Long runners/long draws recommended for bolt #'s 3, 5, 8 & 10. The pocketed nature of the rock made some bolt placements away from the ideal location.

Location

When you arrive at Mt Gorgeous from the trail, you are on a higher platform of blocks. You need to descend to the lower area to the South. A tree leans against the rock to make this easier. The route starts on the far right side before the hill rises into a jungle. The left line of bolts is Family Jewels. There is a nice tree & a few places to sit here. Do not be confused by a new route with funky bolts that stick out an alarming amount, which moves off right, after the 4th bolt and goes to separate anchors(chains?) Delicious climbs pretty much straight up the steep, pocketed wall & overhangs slightly. Look for the red brown pockets up high, festooned with chalk.

Protection

10 bolts, plus 2 for the top anchors. The anchors on this popular route are starting to show some signs of wear.

Photos

RandyLee
Los Angeles, CA
RandyLee   Los Angeles, CA
I ran into about a dozen wasps after passing the crux on Delicious this weekend (June 18, 2017). They weren't aggressive, I climbed past without issues. I didn't see a nest. Jun 21, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Thank you, Bill, Matt, & KD. Jun 26, 2015
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
There are nice new Fixe hangers and fixed 'biners on the route as of a few months ago. Please do not top-rope off of the lower-out anchors.

Thanks Bill, Matt and KD for the much-needed replacements! Oct 14, 2013
Brian Paden
Goleta CA
Brian Paden   Goleta CA
Although I haven't done it clean yet, this is in my opinion the most enjoyable moderate at malibu. Sep 24, 2010
Bill, Matt, Dave Katz, Joe Kristy and I all worked cleaning this up over several weekends and as I remember, Bill was the first to lead it. Questionably the best moderate route in the park. Aug 29, 2010