Type: Sport, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant and John Long, 2001
Page Views: 7,577 total · 46/month
Shared By: Levy on Jan 29, 2008
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park. Details

Description

One of the best in the park, this route has become very popular. It begins on the right end of the wall and begins on whitish/tan rock heading up & left up to a large bathtub sized hueco. From there you go up & out the right side, & power through a steep bulge where you'll find the crux(5.10+)getting to the 7th bolt. The upper 40 feet of this route are on amazing rock and it's only 5.9+. 10 bolts to sport anchors. Long runners/long draws recommended for bolt #'s 3, 5, 8 & 10. The pocketed nature of the rock made some bolt placements away from the ideal location.

Location

When you arrive at Mt Gorgeous from the trail, you are on a higher platform of blocks. You need to descend to the lower area to the South. A tree leans against the rock to make this easier. The route starts on the far right side before the hill rises into a jungle. The left line of bolts is Family Jewels. There is a nice tree & a few places to sit here. Do not be confused by a new route with funky bolts that stick out an alarming amount, which moves off right, after the 4th bolt and goes to separate anchors(chains?) Delicious climbs pretty much straight up the steep, pocketed wall & overhangs slightly. Look for the red brown pockets up high, festooned with chalk.

Protection

10 bolts, plus 2 for the top anchors. The anchors on this popular route are starting to show some signs of wear.

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