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Routes in Mt. Gorgeous

Born on the 4th of July S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Build The Wall S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Burn The Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Camel Straight S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Choss Is A Ladder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cialis Stud S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cig-arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Climb it Change S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Commitment Issues S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack Horror S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Delicious S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Destination Dirtpipe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Family Jewel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Feats of Strength S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Feel The Bern S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gorgeous S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
K-2 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Luscious S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Malibu's Most Wanted S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marauding Monkeys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Poison Stoke S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pow! Right in the Kisser S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seven Year Bitch (Project) S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Simon Says S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swipe Right To Match S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Weakened Warrior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: TF
Page Views: 785 total · 71/month
Shared By: Todd Fertig on Dec 18, 2017
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Don't be hatin'! Now Malibu may not have da street cred of Yosemite, but in deez parts, dis climb is where itz at! Also, grades in Malibu may be a tad easier than Yosemite as well... But don't be hatin'!

Begins the same as Simon Says, on a boulder using an undercling with no feet under the apron. After the first bolt, continue straight up on the left bolt line through the reachy face move crux up to the large hole just before the overhang. Then continue up steep big jugs to the anchors.

Location

Farthest left route up the tall headwall. Just past the trail leading to Toddlers Terrace. Look for a large boulder under the apron for the start. 

Protection

14 bolts and chain mussy hook anchors. The vast majority of clips are on your right side. Rack accordingly.

Photos

somillionaire Viradia
Los Angeles, California
  5.11b
somillionaire Viradia   Los Angeles, California
  5.11b
The finish is epic. Hero jug hauling to the anchors. Easily the most exposed finish at the creek. It makes up for any other less than stellar part of the route. Get on it just for this. May 23, 2018
Joe Kennedy  
 
Super awesome route! I found the section between the second and fourth bolt to be the cruxy section. Once you come over the lip around the fifth bolt, it's easy going on jugs up to an exposed finish! The route is definitely still cleaning up and is a little chossy. Jun 4, 2018
Joe Kennedy  
 
ALSO just a heads up -- there is a large slab on the ground below the first bolt, there was a baby rattlesnake hanging out under the lip when I climbed it so be careful when putting on shoes / sitting on this rock Jun 4, 2018
James Weiss
Newport Beach, CA
  5.11b
James Weiss   Newport Beach, CA
  5.11b
I'd say the crux is after the 5th bolt. Between the 5th and 6th. Before that it wasn't too bad, above you are just fighting pump. Jun 17, 2018
Reva Sun
Los Angeles
 
Reva Sun   Los Angeles
 
Crux is in the beginning IMHO- giant lock off if you're short or of average height to a nice jug. Could also be used as an undercling if you get feet high - avoid the not-so-good two fingery pocket divet. Jun 24, 2018
Michel le Duff
  5.11b
Michel le Duff  
  5.11b
Justifies by itself the hike up the canyon. Jun 25, 2018

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