Type: Sport
FA: Bill Leventhal and gang
Page Views: 1,783 total · 17/month
Shared By: Joseph01 on Jun 29, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Start as for Luscious but go right at the top of the slab to clip the first bolt. A fun straight forward climb using pockets and the arete.

Location

this route starts the same as luscious and goes up the arete.

Protection

5 bolts to 1 open shut and 1 chain.

Photos

Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
  5.11a
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
  5.11a
The crux move for me was 2nd to 3rd bolt and this seems to be height dependent. Aug 12, 2010
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
Joe Kristy drilled the bolts, I first led it, Bill, Matt and Joe followed. 5.11b/c depending on reach. Aug 29, 2010
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.11a
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.11a
John's smoking choss dust, this thing isn't over .11a even by soft Malibu standards.

Been thinking about doing this one for awhile, just to tick it off, but it looked so terrible. It actually has some pretty fun moves on it and decent-ish rock. Apr 11, 2011
Will Cornell
  5.11b/c
Will Cornell  
  5.11b/c
I thought this was pretty stiff for 11a. It is absolutely far more difficult than marauding monkeys. I'd give it 11b/c. The holds are good, but far apart. Each move is pretty committing, and clipping the third bolt is very tenuous. Oct 11, 2014
alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
  5.11a
alex carey   Los Angeles, CA
  5.11a
Reachy moves made this easier for me than my 5'2" partner. The real climbing doesnt start until after the first bolt and only last 30 feet, but they are a strenuous 30 feet, hardest parts were usually clipping. Thought the rock was pretty good quality. Mar 14, 2017