Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: TF & SL
Page Views: 2,690 total · 28/month
Shared By: Todd Fertig on Feb 2, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

Same angle as Luscious but without the deep bucket holds. After clipping the 4th bolt, traverse to the left using the sloper huecos (crux). Save enough for a second crux going from the 5th bolt to the anchor.

Named for the tooth-chipping smack to the face delivered by a popped cam during the cleaning process. Turns out you can find a dentist at 2am if you need to.

Location

Left of Luscious

Protection

5 bolts and double mussy hook chain anchor

Photos

shaking man
Conejo Valley, CA
shaking man   Conejo Valley, CA
Everything out there is choss!! Luscious was very similar in the beginning, it just takes 5-10 years for routes at Malibu to clean up ;-).

I like the bolts. Feb 12, 2011
Todd Fertig
Redondo Beach, CA
  5.12a
Todd Fertig   Redondo Beach, CA
  5.12a
If you put in the effort to comment, at least [sic] some effort to be accurate. The bolts are 1/2" x 4.75" 5 piece rawl stainless steel plated (equivalent to the best bolts placed in MCSP). A great deal of work went into cleaning. Like every new route in MCSP, there will be residual stuff, but nothing that will endanger a belayer. If you can't handle this, don't climb new routes in Malibu (it's not granite). And cheer up! From the sound of it, the only thing that's going to ruin your belayer's day is you. Feb 12, 2011
Those are good sized bolts. I thought powers made SS and zinc plated bolts, but I didn't know they made a combination of the two. Feb 17, 2011
Todd Fertig
Redondo Beach, CA
  5.12a
Todd Fertig   Redondo Beach, CA
  5.12a
Jan, you are correct, they are stainless steel, not plated. powers.com/pdfs/mechanical/… Mar 11, 2011
This route is seriously ridiculous. I'm not going to criticize the FA, because i know a lot of hard work went into cleaning this thing, and its defiantly not good rock.

This is a relevant suggestion for climbers. Do not climb this route. its on the worst rock at Malibu, completely sandbagged, and is very, very dirty. still. Don't let the bolts deceive you like they did me. Don't even try to climb it even just to say you did it. It's not worth the time and cleaning sand out of your eyes as you reach for crumbling holds.

To the FA, the bolts are very deceiving to show that there is a quality route here. You are seriously putting people in danger, and think you should seriously think a lot more before you put up any new routes.

Climbers, do not waste our time, do like 4 laps on luscious if you really wanna climb choss. Aug 31, 2011
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
What's dangerous about it? Aug 31, 2011
FACT: Timebomb holds are unsafe for belayer and climber. Sep 2, 2011
JTLA Tolins
Los Angeles, CA
 
JTLA Tolins   Los Angeles, CA
 
It's cleaning up alright, give it time and it should be a nice route. Does anyone know when the huge new boulder fell off the bottom? The one that looks like it's about 400 lbs. Oct 20, 2011
Todd Fertig
Redondo Beach, CA
  5.12a
Todd Fertig   Redondo Beach, CA
  5.12a
The boulder at the bottom came off as part of the initial cleaning before it was bolted. Timebomb holds? Route's been up over a year now with well over 100 ascents and not one handhold has come off (though some potato chip feet have as with any new route in Malibu). But hey, don't climb it. Keeps it open for me. Mar 31, 2012
Joi-Bobby Laos
Los Angeles, CA
Joi-Bobby Laos   Los Angeles, CA
I thought the route was awesome... even snagged a pretty dope photo off of it. holds seemed fine to me, a bit dusty, but who cares, you're outside. want something crystal clean? pay the $15 for a day pass, but even the holds in there are questionable at times... Jul 23, 2012
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
  5.12a
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
  5.12a
The route is still a little dirty but a fun line. Nothing seems like its going to kill the belayer. And hey, it has nice new bolts on it so can't complain to much. Dec 12, 2012
Trevor Mathews
Upland, CA
Trevor Mathews   Upland, CA
I did this on top rope yesterday, and it was fun. Nothing loose, fun route. Feb 2, 2015
Todd Fertig
Redondo Beach, CA
  5.12a
Todd Fertig   Redondo Beach, CA
  5.12a
I'd like to claim the FSSTRA (First Street Shoe Top Rope Ascent). Sep 5, 2016
Great route! Really fun moves. Fertical Fertig, awesome meeting you a few sundays ago! If you still have those photos, send em my way! Stoked to get up on your other routes. Aug 4, 2017
Joe Kennedy  
 
I didn't feel that this route had loose rock whatsoever. A short and pumpy route, definitely worth giving it a go! Beware though, the crux for me felt like the last few moves to the anchor. Jun 4, 2018
somillionaire Viradia
Los Angeles, California
  5.11d
somillionaire Viradia   Los Angeles, California
  5.11d
This route is now fairly clean. Partner and I both climbed it twice and only a few small chips came off. Otherwise it wasn't Sandy or chossy. And the climbing is fantastic. One of the better pure routes in all of Malibu since it has combination of pocket pulling, side pullingz well placed bolts and a fun top out. I think it's better than Luscious and that is one of my favorites. Jul 14, 2018