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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: C.Tatum, JB
Page Views: 970 total · 30/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on May 27, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

A fun and popular line that wonders up a mini right facing dihedral feature. A nice tour of Peaks Crag face holds plus the bonus of placing a single piece of trad gear in the middle.

Once you reach a sloping ledge you have the option to clip the anchor to 'I Love My Wife'

-or-

Chose between two alternate finishes. The left finish will take you up steep jug holds or the right will take you up positive flat edges. Both are great and add quality climbing.

Location

Start to the left of '16 Weeks'

First bolt is in a small bulge off of a small ledge.

Protection

Bolts
#.75 C4 for crack section
(Likely could place fingers-thin hands)

Photos

- No Photos -
fvclimb  
The above cam is gone but I got a 0.75 x4 stuck yesterday if anyone retrieves it and wants to return it let me know. Jun 21, 2016
Climbed this today (3/35) for the first time this season (loved this route last year).

I accidentally got my cam stuck in the crack (rope drag pushed it in) and so if anyone gets it out let me know. I'll definitely pay you and give you beer.

Otherwise,
Such a fun route. Careful placing a piece on the Dacite - things can get stuck.... Mar 26, 2016