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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: J.Boyd, C.Gebhart
Page Views: 532 total, 17/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on May 27, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A shorter route that climbs in a dihedral of sorts but mostly sticks to face climbing.

Admittedly this route will be a little awkward for almost everyone that climbs it. Comes down to the strange dihedral moves or the bulge slab mantle that will get you.

Location

Buldging but slabby dihedral system to the right of 'Shaman School' and just around to the right of the Hamblam Project. Not to be confused with the two bolted mini dihedrals to the right a bit further...

There is a mid way anchor on a ledge halfway or you can continue up bolted steep jug climbing to the top of the feature.

Protection

Bolts
Runners

Photos

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Colin Cox  
 
I like this climb for a couple reasons. You can toprope it after climbing Off the Couch for a super quick two route warm up, and when it rains it's the only route at the crag that remains dry and climbable. May 28, 2015