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Routes in North End

Above The Storm T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Yourself S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chasing Dragons S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Controversy S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Debra S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Field Holler T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gospel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hobo Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ledgeway to Nowhere S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lion's Bait S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Little Jugger Left S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Jugger Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Stout S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mantle Madness S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Metro Line S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
New River S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Our Daily Bread T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sawed Off Shovel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wing Man S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FOS, C.Tatum
Page Views: 642 total, 21/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on May 26, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

If FOS was climbing here years ago, this obvious route was likely the first that they climbed...

Duh Crack climbing above where the trail comes up to the crag. Good jams, thin mini crux, grand tradition.

Location

Scramble up to a ledge below a obvious thin hands splitter. Climb up into varied dihedral.

Just to the right of 'Debra'

Protection

Standard Rack
Nuts
Runners

Photos

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David Deville
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.10-
David Deville   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.10-
For the not so solid 5.10 climbers the MP gear list is a little off. I found myself doing a lot of back cleaning and pulling hard-for-me moves/hanging with a single piece between me and broken ankles. If you, like me, are of weak fingers and mind I would suggest 2X #3 camalot at a minimum.

If you want a sew-it-up gear list here goes: 1X finger sized piece (I used an orange mastercam), 1X #1 camalot, 2-3X #2 and #3 camalot each. It looks like you could probably put a smaller nut in at the crux but it'd be pretty strenuous. Smaller and larger cams are unnecessary as the crack is #2 and #3 sized anywhere you want gear (including in the OW). Jun 3, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
There is a 'wider-ish' pod near the top but it doesn't warrant bringing big cams all the way up there. Standard rack and some nuts should do it for ya. If you do bring something big take it down to Dream Signals and stuff some wider cams!! Apr 11, 2016
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
Once up the obvious splitter, does the route go left into that wide looking pod? Is there any large gear needed for that part? Apr 10, 2016