Peaks Crag Rock Climbing
|GPS:||35.307, -111.705 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||165,726 total · 2,123/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015 · Updates|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd|
Continued easy access requires responsible parking. Please don’t park parallel to the road side. The Forest Service needs to keep this road clear in case of fire or other emergencies that may arise in the backcountry and may require the movement of heavy equipment along this road. FR 522 is one of very few access roads to this part of the mountain. If the trailhead parking is full, continue on FR 522 for one hundred yards to another small parking area on the south side of the road. There are signs present that limit camping to numbered sites, but please don’t park in numbered camp sites unless you are actually camping. Camping at the trailhead is not allowed. Please DO NOT BLOCK THE ROAD IN ANY FASHION.
The Peaks Crag is a 90' tall row of weathered volcanic dacite tucked up in a shallow canyon amongst the giant aspens, and fat ponderosas on the southern flanks of The San Francisco Peaks. This gorgeous area is one of the most beautiful cragging venues in Flagstaff. The Main Wall is broken into three sections; The North End, the Middle Area, and the South End. The Southern Walls are the somewhat intermittent walls which trail away from the Main Wall down canyon, and tend to be a little shorter, yet secluded.
This area remains one of only four small route climbing areas on the San Francisco Peaks. Sad but true, and it's this fact, coupled with the crags seasonally easy access off the heals of Snow Bowl Rd and Forest Rd 522 that have lead to it becoming more popular in the last decade. Increased ascents have lead to cleaner routes and a better over all climbing experience. Essentially a three season crag, as winter brings the closure of FR 522 and appropriate parking is all but cut off. This road generally closes with the first heavy snow of the season and typically opens mid April.
This Main Wall has very engaging traditional gear routes interspersed with thoughtful sport lines. There are very few routes here under 5.9. However, you'll find very entertaining routes up to 5.14- and at least several good lines in each grade from 5.10 up. Though there aren't of ton of great lines, there are classics to be had. Locals love it, while most visitors I run into find it sharp and just above average. However, it’s hard to deny the pleasure of the uniquely positive routes.
This wall faces southeast and gets great morning sun before going into full shade in the early afternoon. This arrangement makes for perfect temp chasing on projects throughout the season. Whether you are escaping the summer heat or reveling in the mix of crisp temps and dazzling fall colors, this aesthetic wall is sure to please. It has become over the decades a cherished local crag to the Flagstaff climbing community and a very special way for us to interact with Peaks!
If you are new to the crag, please do not run off with the anchor biners. Many of the anchors there are specifically set up for biners. If one is worn past your comfort level, simply substitute one of your freshies and call the 7$ a little bit of climber Karma. Many of the popular routes have Fixe steel Draco biners on thier anchors.
Though removed from the endangered species list and considered a stable population, Peregrines remain a protected species under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act and The Forest Service has the authority to effect closures for Peregrine Falcons because they are listed on the regionally generated Sensitive Species list. This list was updated in 2012 and comes down from the Southwest Regional Office in Albuquerque with input from the Game and Fish Dept. It’s always good to remember that while these crags entertain us immensely, they are home to a wide variety of animals. Temporary closures may be effected if it is determined necessary for the protection of vulnerable nest sites.
Eventually, after some switch backing, you will encounter FR 522 on the right (east) side of the road. It is quite conspicuous with a steel gate not more than 50' off the road. It should be well marked. Drive up a rocky hill for a 1/8 mile to a small parking area at the top of a rise on the north side of FR 522. It also serves as a trail head.
Peak’s Crag- Google Earth
Hike 1/8 mile up obvious old two track trail heading north from the parking area. After several minutes, at a large bend, keep your eyes peeled while looking for a climber's trail that breaks off right by a fallen tree over the main trail. If you hike past an old scrap of a rusty car off the main trail in, you've gone too far.
Once you are on the climber's trail, you can shut down your radar, as you follow this trail for 30 minutes through splendid scenery, cascades of lichen covered boulders, and a steady, gentle uphill grade. The trail leads you straight to the Main Wall.
Peaks Crag Aerial Overview/Approach. Not to scale.
Classic Climbing Routes at Peaks Crag
Days w Precip