Elevation: 8,711 ft
GPS: 35.307, -111.705 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 165,726 total · 2,123/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

Overview

Continued easy access requires responsible parking. Please don’t park parallel to the road side. The Forest Service needs to keep this road clear in case of fire or other emergencies that may arise in the backcountry and may require the movement of heavy equipment along this road. FR 522 is one of very few access roads to this part of the mountain. If the trailhead parking is full, continue on FR 522 for one hundred yards to another small parking area on the south side of the road. There are signs present that limit camping to numbered sites, but please don’t park in numbered camp sites unless you are actually camping. Camping at the trailhead is not allowed. Please DO NOT BLOCK THE ROAD IN ANY FASHION. 

The Peaks Crag is a 90' tall row of weathered volcanic dacite tucked up in a shallow canyon amongst the giant aspens, and fat ponderosas on the southern flanks of The San Francisco Peaks. This gorgeous area is one of the most beautiful cragging venues in Flagstaff. The Main Wall is broken into three sections; The North End, the Middle Area, and the South End. The Southern Walls are the somewhat intermittent walls which trail away from the Main Wall down canyon, and tend to be a little shorter, yet secluded.

This area remains one of only four small route climbing areas on the San Francisco Peaks. Sad but true, and it's this fact, coupled with the crags seasonally easy access off the heals of Snow Bowl Rd and Forest Rd 522 that have lead to it becoming more popular in the last decade. Increased ascents have lead to cleaner routes and a better over all climbing experience. Essentially a three season crag, as winter brings the closure of FR 522 and appropriate parking is all but cut off. This road generally closes with the first heavy snow of the season and typically opens mid April.

This Main Wall has very engaging traditional gear routes interspersed with thoughtful sport lines. There are very few routes here under 5.9. However, you'll find very entertaining routes up to 5.14- and at least several good lines in each grade from 5.10 up. Though there aren't of ton of great lines, there are classics to be had. Locals love it, while most visitors I run into find it sharp and just above average. However, it’s hard to deny the pleasure of the uniquely positive routes.

This wall faces southeast and gets great morning sun before going into full shade in the early afternoon. This arrangement makes for perfect temp chasing on projects throughout the season. Whether you are escaping the summer heat or reveling in the mix of crisp temps and dazzling fall colors, this aesthetic wall is sure to please. It has become over the decades a cherished local crag to the Flagstaff climbing community and a very special way for us to interact with Peaks!

If you are new to the crag, please do not run off with the anchor biners. Many of the anchors there are specifically set up for biners. If one is worn past your comfort level, simply substitute one of your freshies and call the 7$ a little bit of climber Karma. Many of the popular routes have Fixe steel Draco biners on thier anchors.

Peregrine Falcons Info

This area is now an officially observed Peregrine Falcon nesting site by the U.S. Forest Service. If you see falcons please give them plenty of space, if not that whole sector, and certainly don’t climb anywhere near thier nest. You’ll know all about it if they are actively nesting as they are perhaps one of the most vocal birds in these woods in the springtime and screeching calls of annoyance will be delivered to you rather quickly if you get too close. 

Though removed from the endangered species list and considered a stable population, Peregrines remain a protected species under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act and The Forest Service has the authority to effect closures for Peregrine Falcons because they are listed on the regionally generated Sensitive Species list. This list was updated in 2012 and comes down from the Southwest Regional Office in Albuquerque with input from the Game and Fish Dept. It’s always good to remember that while these crags entertain us immensely, they are home to a wide variety of animals. Temporary closures may be effected if it is determined necessary for the protection of vulnerable nest sites.

Getting There

Drive west out of Flagstaff on Fort Valley Road/ Hwy 180, passing the Museum Of Northern Arizona. Turn right onto Snow Bowl RD and proceed upward for several miles.

Eventually, after some switch backing, you will encounter FR 522 on the right (east) side of the road. It is quite conspicuous with a steel gate not more than 50' off the road. It should be well marked. Drive up a rocky hill for a 1/8 mile to a small parking area at the top of a rise on the north side of FR 522. It also serves as a trail head.

Peak’s Crag- Google Earth

Hike 1/8 mile up obvious old two track trail heading north from the parking area. After several minutes, at a large bend, keep your eyes peeled while looking for a climber's trail that breaks off right by a fallen tree over the main trail. If you hike past an old scrap of a rusty car off the main trail in, you've gone too far.

Once you are on the climber's trail, you can shut down your radar, as you follow this trail for 30 minutes through splendid scenery, cascades of lichen covered boulders, and a steady, gentle uphill grade. The trail leads you straight to the Main Wall.

Peaks Crag Aerial Overview/Approach. Not to scale.

73 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Peaks Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 142
Clean Slate
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 80
Latebloomer
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 158
New River
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 120
Off the Couch
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 140
Giggle Drops
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 74
Hobo Joe
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 95
16 Weeks
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 56
Flowrider
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 90
Prosthesis
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 99
Be Yourself
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 83
Be the Burn
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 88
Chasing Dragons
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 39
Burning Point
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 53
Up in Smoke
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 39
Black Swan
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Clean Slate Main Wall > 2. Middle Area
 142
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Latebloomer Main Wall > 3. S End
 80
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
New River Main Wall > 1. N End
 158
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Off the Couch Main Wall > 2. Middle Area
 120
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Giggle Drops Main Wall > 3. S End
 140
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hobo Joe Main Wall > 1. N End
 74
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
16 Weeks Main Wall > 2. Middle Area
 95
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Flowrider Main Wall > 3. S End
 56
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Prosthesis Main Wall > 1. N End
 90
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Be Yourself Main Wall > 1. N End
 99
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Be the Burn Main Wall > 3. S End
 83
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Chasing Dragons Main Wall > 1. N End
 88
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Burning Point Main Wall > 3. S End
 39
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Up in Smoke Main Wall > 3. S End
 53
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Black Swan Main Wall > 2. Middle Area
 39
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Peaks Crag »

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