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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: FOS
Page Views: 976 total, 31/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on May 25, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The name is a reference to my dog, and a retarded politician from Alaska. Pitbull Lipstick climbs one of the tallest and most prominent columns at the crag. It's one of the first things to catch your eye upon arriving at this section of cliff. Start with a little overhang and back clean your first draw after clipping the second one. Continue up the fun stemming dihedral above. The crux comes as you traverse left out of the dihedral onto the beautiful plated column. Underclings, a shallow two finger pocket, textured edges, and clean footwork will get you through to a rest before the final 30 feet of 5.11 hero climbing to the anchor.

Location

Middle of the wall. Look for the proudest, tallest column with plates on it.

Protection

11 bolts to anchor

Photos

MarcYY
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12c
MarcYY   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12c
Some stemming, some hard shenanigans, some amazing head wall action. Wonder if direct goes? Aug 10, 2016
Colin Cox  
 
Good synopsis Zoltan. Maybe it's a v5. To be fair, there isn't an ounce of fat on your perpetually exposed and ripped torso, so I can see why Black Swan feels so easy. It's an endurance v6. Usually my cup of tea but BS is fingery, like PL, but the crux goes on for twice as long with the hardest move near the end. One more piece of info...when first TRing this thing an old schooler was suggesting 12a. I try to find the balance with ratings. Oct 27, 2015
To be fair, I'm not a boulderer but I don't think there is a V6 on Black Swan. And still to be fair if this only had a V4 on it I don't think it could earn 5.12c.

It is hard, and it might sooth some more than others. Nevertheless it's one of the best lines I've been on for whatever that grade is.
:) Oct 26, 2015
Colin Cox  
 
Hey Pat, you'll give it at least three stars once you can do it. Jul 15, 2015
Colin Cox  
 
Black Swan is a long v6 boulder problem. Pitbull Lipstick is a technique tester, old school 5.11 with a beta intensive v4 in the middle. I've done PL hanging the draws at least three times, but I've yet to send Black Swan. Jun 9, 2015
Pat Mac
Tempe
 
Pat Mac   Tempe
 
This line is for sure harder than Black Swan for sure. Jun 8, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
CC would have it no other way! May 29, 2015
Pat Mac
Tempe
 
Pat Mac   Tempe
 
PISS hard 12c. May 29, 2015