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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coyote Ugly S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Final Countdown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I Love My Wife S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: J.Boyd
Page Views: 396 total · 10/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on May 27, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: The Peaks Crag is Closed due to Peregrine Nesting until July 30 Details

Description

Possibly the first completed route during the modern age of development at The Peaks...

Offers great crack climbing and fun movement in a large dihedral system right at the base of the entrance trail.

Unfortunately a party got the chop shop fever at some point and decided to unnecessarily chop some bolts making the start a little exciting.

It is possible to use some of the bolts that remain near although long runners will be necessary.

With a bit of hard looking you can find a small and very tricky nut placement that can (sort of) protect moves getting onto the bulge below main dihedral system.

3 stars after the fever sweats of the onsight...

Location

Start up terrain to the right of 'Black Swan'
Move into large dihedral system to the right.

Protection

Standard Rack
Bolts?
Runners

Photos

- No Photos -
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
As I recall, there was either a highball start more left, then moving right, then, later, a more direct 5.11- bolted version to this climb? Did the "direct" version get the chopsky? I recall it was Manny Rangel that bolted (or re-bolted) that direct start, or maybe he just told me about it while we were at the crag. Either way, for sustained, technical, and yet burly dihedral, this thing really rocked my world. What a fun climb! If you are feeling dialed, it will flow, and, if not, you will absolutely be working hard for the money! Great gear in the dihedral. Jul 16, 2015
Eric D
Gnarnia
5.10+
Eric D   Gnarnia
5.10+
I didn't see any PG13 on this. Jul 26, 2015

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