Connect with Facebook
All Locations >
Arizona
> Northern Arizona
> Flagstaff Crags
> San Francisco P…
> The Peaks Crag
> Middle Area
5.10 Fever
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.9 from 9
votes
Routes in Middle Area
|
16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft |
| FA: | J.Boyd |
| Page Views: | 367 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | J. Snyder on May 27, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Forest Service Parking Requests
Details
1. PARKING- The Forest Service has made it very clear that the most important issue regarding access to this area is proper parking off of FR 522. Their concern, and rightly so, is that they will not be able to move heavy road machinery in and out of this road IN CASE OF FOREST FIRE, or possible rescue operations deeper in the mountain because climbers have carelessly parked and blocked portions of the road. THEY DON'T EVEN WANT TO HAVE TO THINK ABOUT CARS BLOCKING THE ROAD, let alone deal with the scenario. They have the authority to eliminate that parking area, so if you appreciate this crag please park responsibly.
-Carpool!!!! There are areas off of Fort Vally Rd., just before Snowbowl Rd. where you can park, meet friends, and cram into a single vehicle for the short distance to the crag. Please!
-Please conserve space at the small parking area at the trailhead. Squeeze them in! If this area is full, continue east for 300' on Rd 522 to another parking area on the south side of the road. There is a fire pit here sometimes, but it is not a designated campsite, and parking is allowed.
-Do not park in designated, and numbered campsites unless you are actually camping there. These are free sites, first come first serve, and they are not meant for daily parking. The Forest does patrol these sites, and it is a grievance of theirs. It's also just rude.
-Make sure your vehicle is parked at least 8'off of the road. Parking parallel to, but just off the road is unacceptable in eyes of the Forest Service. In fact, it's best to not consider this an option at all.
-If the lot is full, chances are the crag is ridiculously packed. Consider other options such as bouldering at Viet Springs, Freidlien Prairie Boulders (Viet Springs is right up Snowbowl Rd., while Freidlien Prairie is down FR 522 a few miles, and is actually quite a cool are), or just head back down Fort Vally Rd. to West Elden, Or Oaklands.
-Carpool!!!! There are areas off of Fort Vally Rd., just before Snowbowl Rd. where you can park, meet friends, and cram into a single vehicle for the short distance to the crag. Please!
-Please conserve space at the small parking area at the trailhead. Squeeze them in! If this area is full, continue east for 300' on Rd 522 to another parking area on the south side of the road. There is a fire pit here sometimes, but it is not a designated campsite, and parking is allowed.
-Do not park in designated, and numbered campsites unless you are actually camping there. These are free sites, first come first serve, and they are not meant for daily parking. The Forest does patrol these sites, and it is a grievance of theirs. It's also just rude.
-Make sure your vehicle is parked at least 8'off of the road. Parking parallel to, but just off the road is unacceptable in eyes of the Forest Service. In fact, it's best to not consider this an option at all.
-If the lot is full, chances are the crag is ridiculously packed. Consider other options such as bouldering at Viet Springs, Freidlien Prairie Boulders (Viet Springs is right up Snowbowl Rd., while Freidlien Prairie is down FR 522 a few miles, and is actually quite a cool are), or just head back down Fort Vally Rd. to West Elden, Or Oaklands.
Description
Possibly the first completed route during the modern age of development at The Peaks...
Offers great crack climbing and fun movement in a large dihedral system right at the base of the entrance trail.
Unfortunately a party got the chop shop fever at some point and decided to unnecessarily chop some bolts making the start a little exciting.
It is possible to use some of the bolts that remain near although long runners will be necessary.
With a bit of hard looking you can find a small and very tricky nut placement that can (sort of) protect moves getting onto the bulge below main dihedral system.
3 stars after the fever sweats of the onsight...
Offers great crack climbing and fun movement in a large dihedral system right at the base of the entrance trail.
Unfortunately a party got the chop shop fever at some point and decided to unnecessarily chop some bolts making the start a little exciting.
It is possible to use some of the bolts that remain near although long runners will be necessary.
With a bit of hard looking you can find a small and very tricky nut placement that can (sort of) protect moves getting onto the bulge below main dihedral system.
3 stars after the fever sweats of the onsight...
Photos
- No Photos -
Sacramento, CA
Gnarnia