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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: J.Boyd
Page Views: 1,028 total · 32/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on May 26, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Another great line that has the trad/sport Peaks Crag attitude. Climb up through low angle terrain to a steep cove. Start clipping bolts and bust out through a steep roof bulge and into the nice headwall. Awesome movement in a mini dihedral.

Location

Starts left of Lion's Bait. A piece of gear can protect the easy start terrain and a thin hands piece will be important for the exit at the top.

Protection

Bolts
Optional gear at start
Thin hands piece for exit at top

Photos

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J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
As if not fun enough... This beautiful crag classic can be done completely on gear! If you decide to take off on this sort of adventure bring some micro cams and singles of stuff. Brass offsets were rad in the seams in the middle. I'd go as far to say that this route is safe on gear as long as you place it correctly. Put some duct tape over the bolts so you are not tempted. Jul 11, 2016