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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coyote Ugly S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Final Countdown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I Love My Wife S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: C.Tatum, JB
Page Views: 1,098 total · 29/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on May 27, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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44 Opinions

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Access Issue: Forest Service Parking Requests Details
Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A beautiful line that climbs tricky and technical face holds in a left facing dihedral.

The original line stays right and continues up bolted green buttress climbing above.

-or-

Move right lower off of the anchor above 'I Love My Wife' or even continue up bolted jugs to the top of 'Off The Couch'.

Location [Suggest Change]

Starts in blocky terrain. Moves up into bolted slab and then slightly left into bolted dihedral.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
If it weren't for the break at 2/3 height this thing would be 4 stars. I know people have looked into redirecting the line to stay more right on the arĂȘte. Verdict? May 27, 2015
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Yeah. I have personally TR'd the uber most direct finish (staying to the right through a steeperish bulge) and I know J.Unema has thought the same thing and we have even discussed the addition. Not sure though, if it were done right it could be great and could even avoid 'the squeeze'... May 27, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
It is the line... May 28, 2015

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