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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love My Wife S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: FOS
Page Views: 489 total · 15/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on May 24, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A mixed line starting with bolts that lead to a crack encounter up high. The climbing in the beginning is low angle with one little vertical 5.10 crux before arriving at the slightly overhanging crack. Crank past the steep fingerlock crux to sustained enjoyable crack climbing above.

Location

Left of Black Swan there are two cracks up high. Top Kill is the left crack that arches left.

Protection

Bolts and small to medium cams. Anchor.

Photos

Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Excellent and overlooked. High quality stone in the bolted approach bits and an intimidating crux up high where the feetholds run out. Next time I'd bring: a medium nut or small cam followed by 1ea C4s#.3-#2. May 14, 2017
Colin Cox  
 
Named after one of the ways engineers tried to cap the oil leak in the Gulf of Mexico in 2010. Feb 24, 2017