Mantle Madness
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 35.30713, -111.70502 |
| FA: | John B. |
| Page Views: | 1,587 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
All South End routes
(All routes south of "Shaman School")
A sign will be installed where the closure begins. Please do not enter this area.
The USFS will be frequently monitoring the Peregrine Falcons so that they can open areas as soon as possible. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes, instead of the entire walls or crags, and we ask that climbers adhere to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org or the US Forest Service (Coconino National Forest) @ 928-527-8247
Description
Just to the climber’s right of New River is a mysterious line of bolts known as Mantle Madness. It is a thought provoking route and gets one's legs and hips stretched out. Thin technical climbing down low gives way to steadily increasing hold size until the final juggy pulls to the anchor.
You can start off the deck to increase the grade a little bit, though the original start is off the boulder if you can span it.
The bolting at the bottom is a little spaced out over some difficult mantling. A good way to protect the start is to TR and lower off New River clipping into the second bolt of Mantle Madness on the way down. Then pull the rope through and you have bolt 2 clipped.



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