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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Black Swan S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coyote Ugly S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Final Countdown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I Love My Wife S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Off The Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Top Kill T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trust The Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: J.Boyd
Page Views: 540 total · 14/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on May 26, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Forest Service Parking Requests Details
Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A powerful and sustained line that climbs through a series of relentless small holds. Tricky beta and footwork to show stopper tech at the top.

Cleaned up over the seasons and makes for a great tendon trainer.

Named after Jason's recovery from elbow surgery- a "welcome back to cranking" accomplishment.

Location [Suggest Change]

Starts on a boulder floating in the middle of some foliage. Head up a short slab with thin holds and into a steep section. Make moves that eventually lead you up into the thin headwall of The Recovery. Avoid traversing left and into the crack system of 'California Crack' to the left of the route. Possible to hang draws from 'Prosthesis'.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts
Runners can be helpful below roof

Photos

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Colin Cox
  5.12b
Colin Cox  
  5.12b
Being able to toprope this line from the shared anchor with Prosthesis makes figuring out the beta easier. You can also them warm up on Prosthesis, hang the draws on The Recovery on the way down, and then send with minimal efforts. May 28, 2015

More About The Recovery

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