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Routes in Middle Area

16 Weeks S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.10 Fever T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
50/50 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Amateur Hour (AKA When the bush blows she's ready to go) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bad Hombres S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Black Swan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
California Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Chummers Class S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clean Slate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coyote Ugly S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Final Countdown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I Love My Wife S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Off the Couch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pitbull Lipstick S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prosthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Recovery, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shaman School S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spirit Weasel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sunny Side T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Top Kill T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trust the Process T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Whistle Stop, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: J.Boyd
Page Views: 603 total · 15/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on May 26, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

A powerful and sustained line that climbs through a series of relentless small holds. Tricky beta and footwork to show stopper tech at the top.

Cleaned up over the seasons and makes for a great tendon trainer.

Named after Jason's recovery from elbow surgery- a "welcome back to cranking" accomplishment.

Location

Starts on a boulder floating in the middle of some foliage. Head up a short slab with thin holds and into a steep section. Make moves that eventually lead you up into the thin headwall of The Recovery. Avoid traversing left and into the crack system of 'California Crack' to the left of the route. Possible to hang draws from 'Prosthesis'.

Protection

Bolts
Runners can be helpful below roof

Photos

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Colin Cox
  5.12b
Colin Cox  
  5.12b
Being able to toprope this line from the shared anchor with Prosthesis makes figuring out the beta easier. You can also them warm up on Prosthesis, hang the draws on The Recovery on the way down, and then send with minimal efforts. May 28, 2015
A. Ginger
  5.12
A. Ginger  
  5.12
I found it helpful to back clean the second bolt once the third is clipped to reduce rope drag. Sep 2, 2018

More About The Recovery

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