Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: B. Scott, J. Tarry
Page Views: 757 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Apr 28, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2015). Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information: nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

Start by conquering the steep bulge/roof at the first bolt. Reach off the kick-wall to a series of good knobs at the lip before swinging your feet around and manteling onto the slab.

From the slab, engage the business of the route through 4 bolts of solid 5.12 climbing. Sidepulls, knobs, laybacking, and technical foot work are mandatory for this section.

Catch a rest before the namesake roof, then perform a few big moves to a heart breaker mantle/lip encounter. Climb easy slab to the chains.

Location

This route is located on the South Face of Arthurs Rock between Rocksie Rocks and Doom Corner.

Protection

12 bolts + anchor.

Photos

Ryan Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12c
Ryan Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12c
This route is absolutely phenomenal. The bolts were placed perfectly. Don't psyche yourself out by staring at it too long. Just get on it! May 29, 2015
RDP Pascoe  
 
Great route! Long, varied, and perfectly bolted. If you do a multi-pitch route to the top, you can rap from a tree to the anchors and hang the draws/brush the route on the way down. A long sling with draws works well under the roof to reduce rope drag. Enjoy! Jan 23, 2017