Avg: 3.4 from 7 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||B. Scott, J. Tarry|
|Page Views:||1,512 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Scott on Apr 28, 2015|
|Admins:||James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
Start by conquering the steep bulge/roof at the first bolt. Reach off the kick-wall to a series of good knobs at the lip before swinging your feet around and manteling onto the slab.
From the slab, engage the business of the route through 4 bolts of solid 5.12 climbing. Sidepulls, knobs, laybacking, and technical foot work are mandatory for this section.
Catch a rest before the namesake roof, then perform a few big moves to a heart breaker mantle/lip encounter. Climb easy slab to the chains.