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Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Excellent Adventure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kiddy Pool S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocksie Rocks S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,850 total · 32/month
Shared By: Catie-Cat on Jan 25, 2014 with updates from nruea
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures Details

Description

Pitch 1 (5.5): start between "Rights of Passage" and "Sunday Morning Coming Down". Scramble up to a wide, shallow chimney containing a face. After exiting the chimney, belay on ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.6): slightly to the right, continue up a hand crack until you reach another large ledge below the headwall. Go 30 feet left to the chain anchors, and finish on your choice of bolted routes.

Location

Start just east of trail switchback on right side of South Face.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
Super cool Catie-Cat! Thanks for submitting this.
We called the 2nd pitch of this route "Sunset" in the LSP Guide,

Names are arbitrary, but I thought I would connect the dots back to the guidebook for people that have it. Jan 28, 2014
nruea
. . . CO
 
nruea   . . . CO
 
Best (?) easy trad (no bolts) route on the south face.
Start right above the trail switchback/corner. . . (alt. P1: scramble up to and climb through a big, flared chimney, and finish in the middle on solid rock - top of left side is rubbly and a bit sketchy).
At the large ledge, go right and you'll see the cracks/flakes that bring you up "Sunset" and to another big ledge with a boulder. . . we belay here, and then traverse west to the anchors below the headwall pitch of Right of Passage (which is a good, stout 5.9 finish, giving you 3 pitches).

This route is called Sunset. Nov 16, 2016
Tim Kessel
Fort Collins
  5.6
Tim Kessel   Fort Collins
  5.6
Great easy trad route! Protects great. Nov 20, 2016

More About Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack)

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