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Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Excellent Adventure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kiddy Pool S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocksie Rocks S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,726 total · 32/month
Shared By: Catie-Cat on Jan 25, 2014 with updates from nruea
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Pitch 1 (5.5): start between "Rights of Passage" and "Sunday Morning Coming Down". Scramble up to a wide, shallow chimney containing a face. After exiting the chimney, belay on ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.6): slightly to the right, continue up a hand crack until you reach another large ledge below the headwall. Go 30 feet left to the chain anchors, and finish on your choice of bolted routes.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start just east of trail switchback on right side of South Face.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack.


Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
Super cool Catie-Cat! Thanks for submitting this.
We called the 2nd pitch of this route "Sunset" in the LSP Guide,

Names are arbitrary, but I thought I would connect the dots back to the guidebook for people that have it. Jan 28, 2014
. . . CO
nruea   . . . CO
Best (?) easy trad (no bolts) route on the south face.
Start right above the trail switchback/corner. . . (alt. P1: scramble up to and climb through a big, flared chimney, and finish in the middle on solid rock - top of left side is rubbly and a bit sketchy).
At the large ledge, go right and you'll see the cracks/flakes that bring you up "Sunset" and to another big ledge with a boulder. . . we belay here, and then traverse west to the anchors below the headwall pitch of Right of Passage (which is a good, stout 5.9 finish, giving you 3 pitches).

This route is called Sunset. Nov 16, 2016
tkessel Kessel
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
Great easy trad route! Protects great. Nov 20, 2016

More About Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack)